What a glorious time of year to be here. Yes, there are lots of special events, fiestas and activities, but the best thing about the place is simply a widespread sense of joy that seems to permeate everything. I think it because these are celebrations that not only stress faith, but also family and community. December 23rd and 24th exemplify this is to a fine point.
First, there is la Noche del Rabanos, the Night of the Radishes, a celebration and competition, which gives a showcase to artisans who create using radishes, corn husks or dried flowers, rabanos, totomoxtle or flor imortal.
These is a huge event and this year, the 115th anniversary, it drew 20,000 people.
After a quick cleanup of all the rabanos, the zocalo is made ready for Noche Buena, Christmas Eve. Posadas come from various churches around the city, each led by a band, then by a float depicting the search for an inn that would take them in, all followed by parishioners carrying candles.
This is no somber procession, but a joyous, loud, exuberant outpouring. There is much dancing. There are fireworks, sparklers, pinwheels. There are bands all playing simultaneously, but different tunes. There are huge flatbed trucks with loud generators to carry and light up the floats. It is the ultimate feel-good experience for Christmas Eve. There is no commercialism, no politics, nothing but happy people all feeding off of each other happiness and enthusiasm.
In addition to Rabanos and Noche Buena, there was a meeting in San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya of eight different groups of danzantes of la Danza de la Pluma, an art auction, several parties and fiestas, so it may take a while to process and post, but there is a lull for a couple of days.
More mañana.....
4 comments:
How does one get up close to the displays at Rabanos? Do you need a credential? If so, would you kindly tell the process? Thank you.
Joan
Well, for one thing, I show up early, at 10 AM. But this year I could not get in until they let everyone in at 11. It was not crowded at that point. I do have press credentials and I always try to get behind the fences or lines, but never push it too hard. You can get credentials at http://ifpo.net/
Great blog! Im currently in Oaxaca. Stood in line for the rabanos for 3 hours, but it was worth it.
I have a question you may or may not be able to help me with...im trying to visit artisans in their homes to see and buy their art. I want to go to xoxo to see the calacas/little skeletons/hearts made from clay/barro. But I cant find an address of even 1 family online. I can always just go and ask in the town but was wondering if maybe you knew someone or had photographed someone from there. Cheers, Stacey
Gracias, Stacey, hmmm.... Xoxo is not an area I know well for folk art. I would ask Victor Vasquez at Artesanias Teresita, Murgia #100B, just off of Alcala. He knows everything.
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