I can remember an El Dia de los Muertos, Day of the Dead, when I finally began to see better. Little epiphanies led to larger ones and all of a sudden, I got it... well, I got it the best a newbie can after only a few years, but I finally realized that this culture saw things, things like life and death, very differently and what's more, they had a much better way of looking at things than I had ever been taught. That moment changed me and there was no going back.
I am sorta there with the guelaguetzas. There are so many levels at work and while pulling weeds in the garden, I wondered if there were celebrations in other cultures that had the same effects, an outpouring of joy and pride in self and others. There have to be. So clue me in. There has to be that rare delicate balance between self and whole. How can one be so proud and not push it too far to the point when it becomes overbearing?
Proud and humble at the same time?
I can't think of anything in the States, because.. well, it is not a part of the country's persona or psyche. Still there must be other places where guelaguetza or "shared wealth" is such an integral part of a culture. In Etla, these ladies greeted us and gave us tamales and atole to start the day.
As in so many of these events, everyone got free food and drink, a real communal meal. And tasty, too.
It is wild to cheer like crazy, along with everyone else, as the various regions and pueblos represent. Maybe there is some competitiveness there, some rivalry, but I sure don't see or feel it. No, as far as I can tell, it is pure euphoria.
Watching the ladies from Pinotepa (correction -Tuxtepec.. h/t anon) and their piñas head down the street after doing their thing, always is so joyous that it brings tears. They are such a powerful force. One feels that nothing could stop them. I can't help but smile and start screaming with everyone else, "¡Viva! Viva! Viva!"
There is an abundance of quiet dignity as well. Hard to stop that force, too.
I know Oaxaca is unique, but where else are there fiestas or celebrations like these? And remember they cover a wide area and lasted two weeks. No wonder I'm still dazed.
5 comments:
Piña ladies are from Tuxtepec, I think.
http://folklorico.com/danzas/flor-pina/flor-pina.html
Thank you for sharing so much of the Oaxacan and Mexican culture. It is so beautiful. The tribal differences.... so subtle.. yet meaningful to them. Love all the colors
The act of giving away free food on the street (tamales & atole in your photo) to everyone is in such contrast to the image and experience of hungry people begging in the streets of Mexico. How does it work? Is it just carried out by people who feel they have extra to give away? Or is it an expected custom this time of year, something like Halloween candy, that everyone does?
Gracias. Now about the free food. First, I think money is collected from village residents. It is here in San Sebastian for the saint's day, which is Jan. 20. People come around door to door. Obviously, there are folks who can't afford it, but money does come in. Secondly, is the concept of "patron" which basically says if you got it($) spread it around. If someone in the village has a particularly good year, they are responsible to have a fiesta for the whole village. So the money filters back into the community and people have a good party. There may be some government money for the guelaguetzas as they are such good tourist attractions.
Lastly, one does not see people asking for alms in the villages, only in the city. As for them, I feel quite strongly, that it is an opportunity for me to be a "patron" of sorts.
Thanks for the explanation.
Your photos are gorgeous as always. This particular subject is so colorful I imagine it would be hard to get that part wrong but your artistry as a photographer, as well as your love and appreciation of the subject, comes through in both obvious and subtle ways and really helps to convey the feeling for those of us experiencing the culture vicariously.
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