The road to Corralero

 I am sure there are many more desolate spots on the western coast of Mexico, but the beach at Corralero is as far afield as I have gone.... yet.  It took about an hour on pretty funky roads to get there from Pinotepa Nacional.  Everyone gives directions here and most of the time they just say, "Derecho. Just go straight ahead."  Never mind that there are forks and turns, just go straight. And we are talkin' rough roads with washouts, topes, speed bumps, and vados (dips in the road to slow you down or for drainage) which are always hard to see.  The countryside is very different.  One leaves the hot dry city and then winds through some small hills and then things change.  There are green valleys and some fresh water and then into the coastal plain and the the ocean.  I did make it to Corralero, which sits by a large lagoon, but my destination was the other side of the lagoon.  Of course, I missed the turn and went into the village, but I knew it right away and turned around, made the turn and headed to my final destination.  The road was ridged like those sections to warn you that you are approaching toll booths in the States, really bumpy so as to wake you up.  Sand to right of the road, sand to the left, but the road itself was bone rattling.  I drove another twenty minutes past cattle, cactus and burros.  The lagoon was to my left and the ocean to my right.  At the end of the road, I was greeted by two beautiful young women, really the equivalent of sirens, who waved me into a parking spot.  It was one of a few open air restaurants, which must have some business at some time, but there was no one else there except family.  They proceeded to cook me an absolutely delicious fried fish smothered with salsa diablo.  It may have been the best fish I have ever had.  They asked me where I was from.  "Boston."  "Never heard of it."  I told them their lives were perfect.  They seemed skeptical.  The ocean is pretty fierce there and most people swim in the lagoon, but it was late in the day, with the sun setting, so I passed on the swim.  I wanted to make the journey back with a little light.  As I headed back to the fabulous Hotel Pepe, $35 US with A/C, with the sun setting behind me, my belly full, Herbie Hancock's "Watermelon Man" blasting out of the stereo, it occurred to me..... Ahhh... this may have been the best moments of my life.