Mudslide update

This story from Latin American Herald Tribune says more about how everything is connect than immediately is apparent.  The issues include indigenous rights, deforestation and the environment, climate change, government dysfunction to mention a few.

At least 37 people died and three went missing in mudslides over the last few days on several mountainsides in two of Mexico’s southern states as a result of the heavy rains, authorities said.

The last six bodies were found late Thursday in Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec, Oaxaca state, in a mudslide that buried several homes.

In the neighboring state of Chiapas, the recovery of 19 bodies in two mudslides brought to 26 the number of fatalities left since Sunday in the path of Tropical Depression Matthew, which also left 16 people injured and three missing.

A total of 45 Chiapas communities were severely affected, with 1,500 homes damaged, 14 bridges down and damages to infrastructure in roads, communications, electricity and potable water.

In towns near Oaxaca city at least 3,000 people are known to have been left homeless.

The federal director of Civil Protection, Laura Gurza, said Wednesday that more mudslides are forecast for the mountainous regions in the states of Chiapas and Oaxaca, so that all should stay on the alert for any contingency.

She said that throughout the area there has been widespread deforestation and the ground has been greatly softened by the rains, causing mud and rocks to pour downhill to the lower areas.

 Additionally, the local media says that 80 percent of the almost 24,000 kms of the roads in the state have been damaged.

They're everywhere!

Tailgaters!  This guy was sitting right on top of me my whole trip to the market.

Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec - Update

 The news is both good and bad.  The sad news that eleven people died, but it was not the hundreds that was initially feared.  The village is devastated.  People are homeless and moving into communal camps.  There is no commerce.  The roads are being opened and donated aid is in the pipeline, but slow in arriving.  Governmental crews are on the scene and the work is progressing.  There are discrepancies in the reporting and the people in the village are concerned that the media and the government have not fully explained how bad the situation is.  There are donation centers set up in Llano Park and other locations.

The ground is super saturated.  The roads and mud are quite bad.  Potholes like you would not believe.  It is a tough time for all of Mexico.  The rains have flooded many parts of the country.  When I flew back last week I could see water covering huge stretches of land and that was before all the latest rains. Find a place to send donations.
It is not over.  There was also a landslide in Amatan, Chiapas that killed sixteen people.  Full story.

Disaster in Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec

from NPR (Reuters)

An early-morning landslide triggered by persistent heavy rains swept a remote area of Mexico on Tuesday, killing at least four people and burying homes in an impoverished town.
It appeared the disaster in Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec, a town of about 9,000 people, was less deadly than originally feared. Officials earlier had said hundreds were dead or missing after rains brought a drenched hillside down in between 3 a.m. and 4 a.m.....

The landslide is another blow to Mexico as it grapples this season with unusually heavy rains that have triggered floods, forced thousands of people from their homes in vulnerable parts of the country and hit crops.

Street Art cont.... good to be back

The rains continue and continue and continue.  What a year!  I have garden photos from before and I want to take ones to show how much things have grown, but it is simply too wet to shoot.  I did manage to whack back some incredible weeds.  With all this rain, they are thriving and producing some incredible specimens.  Man, I can grow those weeds.  What a crop.  Same in Boston.  Coincidence? Really the garden here is full of flowers and good things to eat, but for now, street art.

I love this stuff, always so vibrant, colorful and meaningful..... and subtle.

Incidentally, from the top photo, a "bichito" is a little insect and the talk is by an entimologist and is for kids.

?

Gotta love that question mark.

For my bday, Zack and Henry Wangeman took me out for one of the best meals I've had here.  Unbelievably good!  It was at Carioca, restaurante brasileño, in Col. Reforma.  The place has a fixed menu in which they bring around skewers loaded with various perfectly grilled meats.  They give you small pieces of sizzling beef, chicken, or pork, cooked in different ways and a few vegetables, all absolutely delectable! 
And yes, they played Las Mananitas over the sounds system.

Feliz cumpleaños?

After this hiatus.... I return to Oaxaca and its my birfday.  Best comment of the day comes from our friend at Amate Books - "Think celsius!

Hey, I am only 15.5!!!

In truth, the trip to the north was depressing.  First, to repair all the damage to my house done by my tenants.  I may never rent again... well, I need a few months to recover.

Second, the US is really messed up.  Sure, there are many good things and people, but dios mio, at an institutional level, whether it be finance, government, religious, corporate, educational, ethical, media... name one that is functioning.  It is like swimming in a sewer.  Okay, maybe that is too harsh, but every time I return I notice great changes everywhere I look.  The systems are not functioning well, often blatantly corrupt and yet very few comment on the obvious.  And nothing gets done... except the rich get richer.

Of course, Mexico is screwed up.  We all know that.  And what's more, they counted on me to lead the revolution on the 16th and I bailed and what out of the country.  So I guess, it is all my fault once again.  What am I supposed to?  It is tough being the Center of the Universe (COTU).  I know, I know, you think you are, but that is only because I kindly let you think that.

Speaking up screwed up.  Mexican politics are soooo weird and corrupt. 
from the Latin American Herald Tribune

"A Mexican politician wanted since May 2009 on charges of colluding with drug traffickers was sworn-in Thursday as a member of the lower house of Congress..... The newly seated lawmaker, who is the half-brother of Michoacan Gov. Leonel Godoy, told reporters he entered Congress through “the main door,” apparently eluding the Federal Police said to be waiting to arrest him..... Julio Godoy, an attorney, said he would represent himself in the criminal case.... Though he now enjoys parliamentary immunity and cannot be arrested, the congressman said he would voluntarily appear before judicial authorities if asked."

You can't make this stuff up. It is like playing hide-and-seek.  Allie, allie, all home free.
¡Viva Mexico! Glad to be back.

Betwix and between

The eve before the big day, El Grito, September 16.  2oo years since winning independence from Spain and 100 years since the toppling of the dictator, Porfiro Diaz.  Viva Mexico!

from gomexico

In the early hours of September 16th, 1810, Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, a priest in the small town of Dolores, Guanajuato, rang the church bell to gather the townspeople. He called for the people of Mexico to rise up against the Spanish Crown, thus initiating Mexico's War of Independence. The country did not achieve independence until 1821, but it is this event, known as the Grito de Dolores which is commemorated every year in town squares across Mexico.

I wish I was there, but... I'm not.  So start the revolution without me.

And i guess I am not sure where I am, maybe between worlds.  So much has changed in El Norte in such a short time.  I barely recognize the place.  Sure, many things are the same, but in case you haven't noticed one of the political parties has gone Galt or something like that.  And the rampant greed and hatred, what people are openly saying, well, it has done a number on me.  And there is NOTHING on teevee, just total sh*t, reality shows and idiot talking heads - as Sting says, "they all look like game show hosts to me."  Man, I am paying big bucks for expanded basic cable and I've got a channel that show nothing but old hockey games all the time!?!

So I feel like an alien here and I feel like, and always will be, an alien in Oaxaca.  Being of two places is really like being of neither.

It makes me think of the kids we used to teach that came from inner cities or foreign countries.  They were never gonna be preps and when they went home, they were no longer homeys.  It was and is a tough way to live, but it opens many doors, many insights.  Back to the other world, Oaxaca, in a few days.  Eyes wide open.

Dirty Projectors - Who knew

Last night I went to concert at the Wilbur Theater in downtown Boston to see Dirty Projectors, one of the hottest bands who are just coming off a world tour.  They will end up on the west coast in a couple of weeks.  Their music is quite something, hard to describe, but so inventive and advanced while at the same time popular.  The crowd was grooving and wildly enthusiastic. Kinda gives me hope for the future.  This was some kickass music with influences from many sources.  Man, the vocals were amazing.  They even used hocketing to achieve the most marvelous sounds. Damn....

Click on the vids to see them in full wide screen. 

 

The thing is that the bass player, Nat Baldwin, was one of my former students.  In fact, the rumor is that I help start him on bass, but in truth, my memory is getting hazier and crazier, so who knows.  I can say this.  He was one of the brightest and most gifted kids I ever taught and his work ethic was off the charts.  He is music incarnate.  He was a blast with whom to work and it was really quite humbling.  You know, when you see someone that is just sooo good, sooo gifted, well, it helps keep one's ego in check.  Here I have been a musician for over fifty years and I ain't got a tenth of what this kid has. 

I went with a couple of great friends, colleagues who are more like brothers and who had known and worked with Nat back in the day.  And his parents and family were there from Maine  While watching what was truly a remarkable and inspiring concert, I flashed on a memory of  maybe fifteen years ago, watching his father, Ben, also a fine musician, upon hearing Nat's first bass solo.  Ben was in the wings, offstage and I don't think he knew that Nat was going to play.  The kid was/is such a monster player.  Now I know you can imagine a father's face hearing the power and magic of his son's playing for the first time.  Yeah, ponder that one...

Now the world is discovering it with a little help from others like  Bjork and David Byrne. 

Ah.... the intangible rewards of teaching.... manna....

In this heart

It is strange to be here on September 11 and to see how a divided country commemorates the event. In terms of weather, it was one of the most beautiful days of the year in New England. At times, I feel as much like an alien here as I do in Oaxaca. I could go on, but...

Sinead O'Connor, a woman of strength and vision, sings what is in my heart.

I heart Bobby

Bobby McFerrin is simply magical. Here he uses the pentatonic scale, one of the world's oldest and most natural.

World Science Festival 2009: Bobby McFerrin Demonstrates the Power of the Pentatonic Scale from World Science Festival on Vimeo.

In short supply

Whether here or there, we are watching and hoping.

Congo Women Secrets Unveiled

My friend, Sonya Melescu, has a remarkable and very powerful film on the Women of the Congo. It is a submission in a linkTV competition. Please watch it and go vote. Every little bit helps.
http://www.linktv.org/viewchangefilmcontest/films/view/1088

Still rainin', still dreaming

Yes, a Hendrix quote, even though I am temporarily not there, I still follow what is happening. This is tropical depression Eleven-e. The heavy rains continue to cause problems as many village are suffering severe flooding and are isolated. My house is directly under it.

And Oaxaca itself is partially isolated with the stoppage by Mexicana, one of the main means of transport into the state. I believe they are responsible for 70% of the traffic in the state.

Continental will carry me home.

Just thinkin'

A quick observation or two as I while away the hours waiting for Earl to arrive. A quick visit to El Norte, first torrential rains, then searing heat and now a hurricane? Was it something I, the Center of the Universe, said? Yes, I do know that you think you are the Center of the Universe, but you're not. It is meeeeeee!

First, mosquitos are very slow here. In Oaxaca, I don't even know I am bitten until the awful itch starts. They are more potent there and fast? I can hardly ever swat them while they are on me. I have to try and grab them while airborne. Here, molasses in January.

Second, a shoutout to Apple. I brought a dead battery back with me, took it to the Apple store on Boyleston and had a replacement in under a minute... free! Makes the whole trip worthwhile.

Third, I don't know how to say this, but there are lots of grotesquely fat people in this country. I never see anything even closely resembling this in Mexico. Oaxaqueños can be thick, full bodied, tortillas and tamales can do that, but I have been blown away by the gross obesity which seems fairly common here. Weird.

And I almost forgot, it was magical to be back here for the end of the War in Iraq. The celebrations have been inspiring. Oh, there weren't any? It started out with "Shock and Awe" and ended with "Aw, shucks."

Convite - Teotitlan del Valle - July, 2010

This is a video from July of the convite or formal procession of young women and girls in Teotitlan del Valle in the annual fiesta celebrating the Precious Blood of Christ. This year there were hundreds of marchers and it was beautiful. It also helped to have shot this even several times. Now I know where to be at a certain time. I shoot and then pack up and run through the back streets to get to the next vantage point. One can follow the entire event from preparation to completion. Quite a workout, but what a blast!
And this is one nice video if I leave the humidity, I mean humility, by the wayside. It may be best to click on it to see it wide screen.

Guelaguetza Desfile

At long last, the video of the beginning of this year's fantastic bicentennial guelaguetza, the parade that kicks off the whole two week dance fiesta. I have been waiting to post this. I am in El Norte, so upload speeds are easily a hundred times faster. It may be best to click on it to see it wide screen.
The parade was fantastic, obviously.

She's everywhere

La Catrina gets around.

Can you believe it?

Breaking news:

Televista, the second largest media company in Latin America, a multimedia conglomerate with outlets throughout the western hemisphere, donated $13,000,000 MP to the PRI (Partido Revolucionario Institucional), the opposition party of Presidente Felipe Calderon. The PRI, currently in control of many states in Mexico, was in power, nationally, for most of the 20th century and opposes much of the current administration's policies and governance. Financial backing of Calderon's opposition has deeply divided the nation and many are questioning whether his administration can achieve anything for the remainder of his term.

A spokesperson for Calderon's party, the PAN (Partido Acción Nacional) said, "Es como una mala telenovela. Usted no puede hacer esta clase de cosa."
Translation, "It is like a bad soap opera. You can't make this stuff up."

Oops.....

Wrong country, wrong network, wrong party.... just wrong.

UPDATE: I am not talking about Mexico, just demonstrating how things sound very different when they are ascribed to a different country or party. So, USA, Fox to the GOP? Still wrong.

You've got to be taught

Man, I read the news today, oh boy....
Really, I think El Norte has gone crazy.
(sigh)
Rather than rant, listen to the great guitarist/vocalist/teacher John Pizzarello's version.

You've got to be taught
To hate and fear,
You've got to be taught
From year to year,
It's got to be drummed
In your dear little ear
You've got to be carefully taught.

You've got to be taught to be afraid
Of people whose eyes are oddly made,
And people whose skin is a diff'rent shade,
You've got to be carefully taught.

You've got to be taught before it's too late,
Before you are six or seven or eight,
To hate all the people your relatives hate,
You've got to be taught!

Signs

In a city with so much street art, graffiti and general sights to see, I started noticing signs and how they matched the quality and creativity that is at the core of this culture.And a little context.And a little context.This oil change sign almost has a deco feel to it.Best prices in town.Eating utensils as elements.Better days behind.

Mezcal Trippin'

What's that at the end of the arco iris, the rainbow? Ah yes, better than gold for some, an olla of mezcal.
It was a trip into the heart of the mezcal producing region today. Actually, mezcal is made all over Oaxaca, but this is prime mezcal territory. We made a large circle, or should I say we attempted to make a large circle, starting by heading south towards Ocotlan and then cutting east through Santa Catarina Minas, Chichacapam, and north through Matatlan to Mitla and then due west back home. My traveling companions will remain anonymous. Trust me, they were both experts and I was designated driver.

In Santa Catarina, at the first place we stopped, we sampled some $150 a bottle - this is at the source!!! - from plants that take 25 years to mature and make about six liters a plant. Some mighty rare stuff to say the least, the best of the best. I listened as they talked to the seller about plants and process. It turns out that Oaxaca has the most varieties and diversity of plants in all of Mexico. Acting in good faith, we bought a $35 bottle and we moved onto the house of Yolanda, the widow of an old friend, Ishmael who died a couple of years ago. Here they are a few years ago. She looks the same and seems very happy. We sampled her mezcal. Sublime! Better than the high priced spread. The experts said it was some of the best they had tasted in twenty years. We bought 15 liters at $5 a liter. Then off to the Chichacapam, a village about 20 miles into the mountains, to see, Faustino, the mescalero I had photographed last year. We went to the wrong house first. but it was his brother's place and he had plenty of mezcal from the same palenque or distillery which was right next door, a small rustic operation. His mezcal was pretty good and quite strong. As I was driving, I barely had a taste at each of these places, but by this point, the others were... let's say, very happy. We bought 5 liters there and went next door to his brother's. Fuastino was not there, but we got five more liters, just because we had gone there to see him. It wasn't his fault that his brother had snared us first. If I said fried, would that suffice? With one expert passed out, snoring in the back seat it was time to head home. I thought I knew where I was going, having been there before, but as I was taking a turn to head back to Mitla, the other expert said no, it's the other way...... so an hour and a half later, on s-curves in the rain in the mountains, in the middle of nowhere,he said we were going the wrong direction. Ah well, we made it back safely with our precious cargo and we did get to see this amazing full rainbow. I could not get the whole thing in my lens. There was this cliff behind me.The fields and mountains of Chichacapam. The maguey was glowing
A sign of good mezcal is the longevity and number of "pearls" or bubbles as you pour it into a container. In this case, the pearls were gold.

Today's harvest.

Really there is more to harvest even though I got a late start, but I like these colors. That's a dahlia and some nice chilies.

Your papers, please.

I guess it is somewhat normal for those of us living outside our countries to pay close attention as to what is going back at home. Remember that Oaxaca has many areas which can only be classified as Third World. It is possible that were are more analytical or observant because we are on the outside watching or we could just be crazy expats..... of maybe that's just how it is in my house.

So watching the growing xenophobia in the US is alarming. Immigrants, Muslims, foreigners, anchor babies, terrorist babies, scientists, the list keeps growing. Not exactly an Age of Enlightenment. In talking with friends here, both Mexican and expats, there are lots of opinions and plenty of suggestions as to what to do, my favorite being, "Go sit on a cactus."

One opined that when he moved here many years ago, it was the hope that Mexico would follow the US into the First World, that the economy would grow and social programs would help advance the country. Unfortunately, it did not quite work out that way. In fact, just the opposite, the US is lurching towards Third world status. Seems it can't afford education, employment, infrastructure repair, renewable energy, a long list of things the country cannot do. Oh, but it can fight needless and seemingly endless wars, all off the budget. And the rich just keep getting richer.

Meanwhile fear and hatred grow. Let's get rid of the 14th amendment, deport everyone or put them in internment camps - yes, that was a suggestion from one of the new batch of politicians. New troops on the border, Arizona's law, fear and intimidation in action, your tax dollars at work. How we gonna enforce all those new laws, find all these illegals and terrorists among us? One is going to need one's papers at all times.

And this brings me to my point. The last couple of days, I have had to go through military checkpoints. One was only a km from my house, on the road into San Sebastian, a tiny road that often has oxen and burros on it. This was a serious checkpoint with lots of troops with very big guns. They asked for license and car registration and then searched the car thoroughly. It is a scary experience and no matter what, I am cowed into submission, trying to smile and act normal, while undergoing something I think is Orwellian. And yet we put up with it. This is everyday life here. Searches, soldiers, big guns, are an almost constant presence. Mexico is a militarized country and the army is the home for many young and uneducated people.

So something to ponder, as the US becomes more like Mexico. How will you do when this becomes normal in El Norte? Are you ready to go through military checkpoints searched by often masked soldiers? How will you do when asked for your papers and are basically scared shitless?

Urbania

That's the name of the store. Xbox game rentals on the left. Skateboard and"I heart to skate" hanging in the doorway. Bike, kids and all that Oaxacan color, who could ask for more?

Street Art cont....

This a really a remarkably beautiful and creative piece. The words in the upper right, "or that stupid shit design."
One of a slightly different character. The struggle continues.....

Shh... I'm trying to read

Some people can read through anything. Others need a little peace and quiet. Workers outside the south side of Santo Domingo.Remember all those picture of workers chipping away at paving stones. Here is the finished street/walkway to the south of Santo Domingo. Beautiful work, isn't it?

Wanna bet?

OK, a little off the wall, but what can I say?

There are certain things I miss from El Norte, like fast internet and good pizza, but I know that it is a trade off. There are those who may never have had a real tortilla or tasted what chicken really tastes like, not that cardboard stuff you get in the stores or restaurants. As I say, it's a trade off.

I can get crunchy peanut butter here. Yes, it is hard to find, but someone turned me on to a source, expensive, but someplace that always has it. Now for something to spread it on. Polly want a cracker?

Fergitaboutit.

Let me digress... there is a movie, I know, I know, there is always a movie with me, but there is a movie, Four Rooms, with Tim Roth playing Ted, the bellhop in a hotel on the decline. As always, he is great. There are lots of stars in the film (Hayek, Banderas, Willis, Madonna) and lots of directors (Rodriguez, Tarantino), one for each vignette. It is a fun flick.

At any rate, the last room in the movie is inhabited by people involved in a bet. The bet is a reenactment from an Alfred Hitchcock Presents called "The man from the south". The bet is that a guy can light his trusty lighter ten times in a row. If he does it, he wins a car. If he doesn't, his finger gets chopped off.

And that's the premise for this bet. Mine involves breaking bread, I mean, crackers.

I would bet that no one can break a Mexican saltine into neat squares, along those nice perforations they divide the cracker into. Given ten large saltines, I would bet that not one could be broken apart the way they are supposed to. Believe me, I have tried and tried. The things will just not break into nice, neat little normal crackers. Those perforations are just for show. They never break on those lines. Nothing but jagged pieces upon which to spread the PB. And you thought you had problems?

So I will put up the car and you can bring the saltines of your choice, but they must be bought locally. But not to worry, no finger chopping is involved. A truckload of crackers will suffice.

UPDATE: Hmmm... I think the bet is off only because the next batch of crackers... of course, broke right where they were supposed to, but I swear, this a first. Need more testing and more PB.

More Etla guelaguetza

The Guelaguetza is more than just a dance festival. It is a cultural concept that I am not sure I as a non-oaxaqueño can fully understand.
In Teotitlan del Valle, it is a whole shared wealth/debt/work way of life. I love how these dancers feet are at the same angle, the same move.Many of the dances have lots of humor in them, aspects of village life, field work, drinking, bull fights, battle of the sexes stuff, all presented with such joy and good nature.One thing I do know is that one of the aspects of the guelaguetza is sharing. After sharing their regional dances with the the audience in Etla, the dancers distributed gift from their regions. They would throw hats or brushes, various items to the crowd. The dancers from Tuxtepec, the Flor de piña dancers, merely handed their pineapples to fans.
One thing I am always amazed at is people's stamina. They dance for hours. They march for miles. They party for hours. They carry things effortlessly on their heads. These piñas are big! Try dancing with one of those on your shoulder.
Coming and going. What colors and outfits.Lots of these faces are details of larger shots. The wonders of digital.

Street Art cont....

I suppose it is the same everywhere, but Oaxaca is filled with such interesting sights. I never fail to be drawn in by the art and graffiti. These two really made me think. This virgin is so beautifully and tastefully done, fits with the house so well. It had to be planned. I hope it remains untagged.

Visual hallucinogenic or a piece intended to make one look and perceive it as art? In the eye of the beholder, as always.