Yesterday we trekked into the mountains to the east, to the village of Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec, some three hours of driving. It is sometimes hard to believe how diverse this area is. You go over a mountain and everything changes, from the flora and fauna to the people and their cultures. It can be desolate and dry on one side of the hill and green and vibrant on the other. This is the mixe region and the faces and language are much different. The villages often sit on the sides of the mountains and have incredible vistas. The roads were not bad at all, but I am not sure how they will be once the rains arrive.
For me, hands down, the clothing the women wore was the highlight of the trip. Several months ago I had seen a traje, an outfit, from Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec in an artesano feria in the city and almost bought it simply because it was so beautiful. I planned to hang it on the wall as a piece of art along with the other huipiles that grace mi casa. But.... I didn't buy it. However, I copied down the name of the village and made note of the fact that they were having a fiesta this weekend. Our plan was hatched and we executed it flawlessly. All we had to do was show up. The rest was easy and most magical.
The village was packed and happening. People were very friendly and open. The food was good. We sampled tamales, coloradito, amarillo and rajas. All very tasty, but different in the consistency of the masa. There were bands playing on balconies, a large market, basketball games, then dancing. We left before the rodeo began. The fiesta is a three day affair and we only caught a few hours of it, but it was so worth it. What a treat. You can see what I mean about the women's clothing.
We all scream for ice scream in any language
A woman from the village to the west, Tamazulapam del Espiritu Santo. You can tell by her outfit. Even though her village is only fifteen kilometer away, they have a whole different look.
Family portrait
What a look.
I think the women wear these beautiful embroidered pieces everyday. I love how they wear the rebozo, kind of folded. I am sure there is an art to it.
And as always, it is the abuelitas that steal the show.
I did end up buying a full traje, complete with skirt, blouse, belt and rebozo. I will get a shot of it later. So hold on..... more to come.
The here and now... and what and why
Complacency is a trap. At least that’s what I was thinking when I up and left the comfort of a Yankee prep school gig, where I taught music, amongst other things, for 28 years. There was also that life long career as a composer, musician and artist.
First, it was a year in St. Thomas, USVI, working as a reporter and shooting photography and then, a year in San Agustin Etla, Oaxaca, Mexico.
Time passed.
More time passed and a year back in the Athens of America followed by a hasty return to Oaxaca where it is all happening.
A couple of years in San Sebastian Etla and now, just down the road in San Pablo Etla. Life is good.
Click on an image to see it larger.
For additional photography please visit my flickr page.
You can find my music on Jango (World & latin - Worldbeat) and at iTunes and most online stores.
¡Soy consciente de todas las tradiciones del Internet!
If you are coming to Oaxaca, please contact me for tours or advice.
First, it was a year in St. Thomas, USVI, working as a reporter and shooting photography and then, a year in San Agustin Etla, Oaxaca, Mexico.
Time passed.
More time passed and a year back in the Athens of America followed by a hasty return to Oaxaca where it is all happening.
A couple of years in San Sebastian Etla and now, just down the road in San Pablo Etla. Life is good.
Click on an image to see it larger.
For additional photography please visit my flickr page.
You can find my music on Jango (World & latin - Worldbeat) and at iTunes and most online stores.
¡Soy consciente de todas las tradiciones del Internet!
If you are coming to Oaxaca, please contact me for tours or advice.
Santo Domingo
The hereafter re me
- Christopher Stowens
- Oaxaca, Oaxaca, Mexico
- Musician, photographer, videographer, reporter, ex-officio teacher, now attempting to be a world traveler
2 comments:
Thas my lil town :-( . I will go back there 1 day
I've been n california for 10 years , and i think its time to go home :-)
Alberto, it is one beautiful place and I hope you make it back soon.
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