Plumas forever...

It is always such an honor and delight to see the danzantes de pluma in Teotitlan del Valle.  And this week is extra special as a new group presents its first performances as they begin a three year commitment.  

The village is celebrating its annual recognition of la Presiosa Sangre de Cristo and the church atrium was packed to see these excellent dancers.  There are eleven dancers in this group, nine danzantes led by Moctezuma, Rene Alaves Lazaro,

A wonderful dancer with sharp clean footwork,

Joining him are La Malinche, Yaretzi Bazan Ruiz,

And her alter-ego Doña Marina, Jimena Vicinete Lazaro, here with one of the subalternos.

On Wednesday the wind was quite strong and the penachos, headdresses, caught the wind and the strain on the dancers' faces was obvious. 

It will be so much fun following this group and getting to know them all, starting with Maximo Ruiz Hernandez.

Let's dance! ¡Y viva Teotitlan del Valle!

People get ready...

There's a train a comin'.....

"Without women there is no revolution." 

I am so with them.

Everything Must Go!... and they weren't kiddin'

Grand Liquidation Sale!  They were serious!

Fourth of July - 2019

 

Tanks on the Mall and concentration camps on the border.... not a pretty picture and nothing of which to be proud.  The quote is from R. J. Velarde's poem Suave Patria "Patria: your maimed terrain is clothed in beads and bright percale."  Perfect for today.

Soup in a Bag...

It is so nice to be back where such wonderful fresh produce is so readily available.  This morning, in the little Friday market in Viguera, this bag of freshness caught my eye.  All the ingredients for sopa de guia, a soup made from squash, its tendrils, flowers and leaves, all in a corn based broth. I've never made it before, but I've had it many times.  It's a true Oaxacan soup.  Normally, the broth is made using corn husks, but there was a pickup truck loaded with fresh corn, so....

The finished product was quite close to the real thing.  Very tasty and oh so healthy!

And enough for days!

Welcome back...

It is good to be back in Oaxaca.  The transformation of the countryside is dramatic.  Everything is so lush and green now.  The garden is a jungle!  The sunflowers in the garden were barely a meter tall when I left now they are well over two closing in on three.... Oh, there are some mighty weeds, too.

Not in Kansas anymore....

It has been a very wet and cold spring in New England and everything is incredibly lush and green.  I'm here for a few more days and after six months of the dry season in Oaxaca, it is otherworldly.  My garden here is pretty much no or low maintenance. It has to be, but I love how wild and natural it looks.  My "lawn."

And so much fun to see dogwoods that I planted as tiny seedlings. 

Look at them now!

I know the rains have come to Oaxaca.  Actually, they had started just before I left, but I'm excited thinking how much the gardens there have been rejuvenated by the return of the rains.  But for now, I am enjoying all the hosta, myrtle, pachysandra and Solomon Seal, all very low maintenance.

Cazadores de Tesoros

Most of the TV I watch is in Spanish, but every now and then, I see something in English with subtitles in Español.  It's a great way to learn the language and expand my vocabulary.  And so it is with the History Channel's "American Pickers" or as it is known in Mexico, "Cazadores de Tesoros" (Treasure Hunters.) In it, two guys from Iowa, Frank and Mike, travel across the country in search of valuable antiques.  Some of the things that always excite them are old signs of any sort.  They pay good money for them.  I bet they would love this one from just done the road from mi casa.

Not his day....

The Rules of the Road are different in Oaxaca and a bit crazy at times.  One supposed rule is "You are never the last one through the red light."  So one has to always be very aware.  And like most rules, they can be ignored... until you get nailed.  Licenses? Insurance?

This was one of the regular police sweeps of motos or motorcycles to see if everything is in order.  They do the same for cars and trucks, too.  And if things aren't in order?  Instant impoundment.

Bummer!

Bueller? Bueller? Anyone?

I have no idea what this gorgeous starburst of a flower is. I don't remember ever seeing bloom, at least not like this.  Anyone know what it is?

Baby, you can drive my car...

This is as close as I can come to getting a shot of this wonderful mural celebrating Emiliano Zapata, one of the leading figures of the Mexican Revolution in 1910 without a car in it.  There are always cars or trucks parked in front of it.  At least, it's a nice car.

Zapata is an iconic figure and his visage can be found everywhere.
Update... back to normal.  See what I mean?

A tree grows in....

We are approaching the end of the dry season.  There have been a few nice rains and some not so nice hail, but more importantly... it's mango season.  This huge tree overlooks the Alcala, the pedestrian walkway and must be at least 12-15 meters tall.

Mangos!  They are plentiful and so tasty.  I stop at my local fruit stall and get some every day.  Sometimes, perfectly ripe and other times, almost ripe, with a nice crisp crunch.  The overly ripe become smoothies, but for now...

Look at all those mangos!
Update: I didn't realize that almost all the huge tree behind the wall were mangoes, too.  What a bountiful harvest.

Walk a mile in these?...

Not only can they walk, they can dance. 

Traditional monos dancing in front of the cathedral.  Look how tall those stilts are.

Always popular, another wonderful tradition found in Oaxaca. 

¡Viva!

This Mexican Life....

Traveling carnivals with lots of rides and booths are a part of life here with all the Saint's Day celebrations and fiestas.  It always looks like a hard life to me, the carny life.

The rides, food stalls and games fill the streets.  They are there for a few days and then off to the next.  The rides always look kinda shaky, but I think I could handle this one.... as if I could fit in one of those cups.

Waiting for Godot - Cocijo style

It is hot and very dry.  The heat seem endless and it is wearing people down. We are all waiting for Cocijo, the Zapotec god of rain, thunder, and lightning to make an appearance and he is due any day now.....ojala.... I hope.  This mural says it all... "Villages with Water.  Villages with Life."

"Remember that the valley of Ocotlan has cienegas (permanently saturated ground under the soil)  and wetlands.  The water is free."  The small print mentions that water should not be sold as merchandise and should be conserved".

Sign of the times...

This shot was hard to get as it is on the Pan-American highway at the northern side of El Fortin where the traffic is always crazy.  It's an intersection where five roads intersect.  The Truth must be exposed!

Mezcal is taking off globally and Oaxaca is filled with field after field of different varieties of agave.  Move over tequila.  Mezcal is taking over.

This is so Oaxaca....

Canastas, baskets, filled with flowers, no doubt for some celebration.  Perhaps a calenda, a wedding, a performance, but no matter what, dancing, definitely, will be involved.

I love this place - Flat tire edition

I woke up to discover a flat tire this morning.  No big deal.  I put on the spare and drove just down the road to the very first tire place I saw and in twelve minutes my flat was repaired and back on the car.  They noticed I was missing a hubcap and they had an extra that fit.  Total cost $100 MP, about $5 US.  All thanks to this gentleman and his two fellow workers.

That's one of the things I love about this place.  Car problems are so easily taken care of and always with a smile and a great price.  So different from El Norte.  Yay!!

Mural, Mural, on the wall....

There are some beautiful new murals adorning the walls of the market in Tlacolula.

They cover the entire left side of the main entrance.  And, of course, there are so many iconic images of the market and Tlacolula, like the breads that are just on the other side of that wall.

Cacao and chocolate.....

Into the traditional oven...

We were lucky to see one of the three artists who created these wonderful murals.

Marmotas, the globes, baskets, the traditional traje... and the ladies from San Marcos with their barro rojo..... perfecto!

Not to mention the Feria de Mezcal, Nieves and Vinagre which ends today.