Danza de la Pluma moments

 

Observance of the danza de la pluma is always a special time in Teotitlan del Valle.  I say observance because it really is a rite or ritual.  They dance it because it has been danced for so many years,  They dance it because it tells the story of Cortez and the conquistadores, with minor local adjustments.  And they dance it because it re-enforces their commitment to how the village sustains itself,  how they live their lives, shared work, shared wealth and above all, respect. 

For the dancers, it is a physical ordeal and yesterday, they were still going strong even though they had dance for close to ten hours the previous day.  It is a lot of dancing and with the penachos, the headdresses, catching the wind and forcing them to keep their heads erect, well, they sure have earned my respect.  I can't imagine it.

And the day and the dance itself are filled with special and powerful moments.  Here is Moctezuma, Jose Isaac Vazques de los Angeles, with Malinche, Juana Lisabeth Contreras Vicente.

And here is the moment when Monctezuma takes off his penacho and hands to Doña Marina, Malinche's alter ego, Ailani Ruiz Ruiz.  Great symbolism there.

Yesterday, was the first time, I really caught the significance of this moment. It gripped me.

It is food for thought on the history of Mexico.  For many people here, Cortez was no hero and Doña Marina/Malinche represent a complex part of the Mexican psyche, malinchismo.

from Wikipedia

The word malinchismo is used by some modern-day Mexicans to refer pejoratively to those countrymen who prefer a different way of life from that of their local culture, or a life with other outside influences. Some historians believe that La Malinche saved her people from the Aztecs, who held a hegemony throughout the territory and demanded tribute from its inhabitants. Some Mexicans also credit her with having brought Christianity to the "New World" from Europe, and for having influenced Cortes to be more humane than he would otherwise have been. It is argued, however, that without her help, Cortes would not have been successful in conquering the Aztecs as quickly, giving the Aztec people enough time to adapt to new technology and methods of warfare. From that viewpoint, she is seen as one who betrayed the indigenous people by siding with the Spaniards. Recently a number of feminist Latinas have decried such a categorization as scapegoating, blaming her for forces beyond her contro

Octavio Paz addresses the issue of La Malinche's role as the mother of Mexican culture in The Labyrinth of Solitude. He uses her relation to Cortés symbolically to represent Mexican culture as originating from rape and violation. He uses the analogy that she essentially helped Cortés take over and destroy the Aztec state by submitting herself to him. His claim summarizes a major theme in the book, claiming that Mexican culture is a labyrinth.

More convite faces

The last two days in Teotitlan del Valle have been filled with the Danza de las Plumas, always a glorious event.  However, the weather was severely overcast, with rain all around, which did manage to stay away.  Still, the light was no where as nice as it was for the convite.  It was, however, quite good for video, but that will have to wait.  So back to Saturday and the procession of unmarried women and girls.  Look at this light.... and check out the boy checking out.

 So many beautiful faces.

Classic.

 Classic cute.

I always love how beautiful their hair and earrings are.  Again, a classic look.

Even Christ appears to be impressed with these braids.

And this shot tells so much.  Look at the stretch of her arms.  The canasta is taller than she is.  So fully extended, the girl carried it for several kilometers.  Absolutely amazing.  What stamina... and she was not alone, hundreds of others joined her.

Another convite in Teotitlan del Valle

Convites. processions of unmarried women and girls, are important parts of each fiesta on Teotitlan del Valle and yesterday's was particularly sweet, with lots of happy kids and lots of participants in the procession.  Also, even though it was spritzing when we arrived, almost instantly, the sun popped out and the light became beautiful.  Getting there early and watching the multitudes assemble is always a blast and the first thing I noticed was this unusual Virgin that was to be carried by one of the girls.

 And what a beautiful girl she was and is.

 

 Here she is carrying the Virgin to her starting place.

Right at the very front of the procession.

I'm not looking for a novia, but she could steal my heart... if I were a ten-year old boy.  I took lots of shots of the whole event, but I thought to start, I would post these of her as she led the whole group of women through the streets.

The things they carry are heavy and they walk several kilometers.  It takes real strength and stamina, but she made it look easy.

More in a bit, but first, it is back to Teo for the Danza de las Plumas.

Shirt shots cont.....

I love taking photos of people's shirts  I bet I have hundreds of them by now in a series called, "Do you know what you shirt says?"

 My last clean shirt and proud of it.

Hipster in the know.... Vinyl Rules.

I feel like I only get one out of ten good ones.  People walk by and if I can't get it together to ask, "Hey, can I take you picture for your shirt?"  they are gone and I am kicking myself for missing the opportunity.  It is actually a fun exercise and everyone always agrees... always.  It's crazy.  But not as crazy as some of the shirts.  These from the last couple of days.

A guapo from Tlacolula.  Santa Muerte looks serious.  I like the red eyes and the stud in his ear.

I should have shot this one from the side.  The young lady is very pregnant and the eyes and smile were perfectly placed.

I don't think I could pull this one off as well as she does.  Very cute, but I need those glowing red eyes.

And what does this one even mean. Sure, Mondays ruined his life. Good thing he has two extra hearts (r) ????

Well, someone's happy

It has been a weird rainy season.  It poured in June and then was dry for the next two months.  However, the last couple of days it has been very cloudy for Oaxaca and there have been some very nice soaking rains.  I am sure all the campesinos must be happy.   And my little inner garden sure is.
A little wall art.

 There is some nice dill, all volunteers.  I have it everywhere.  That's hollyhock from Boston.  Papyrus, carrots, basil, zinnias and a few things that I have no idea what they are.

A serious broccoli plant.  That's the new door I had cut which leads to the outer garden.  A huge improvement.

 They are so happy.

I know where every one of those plants came from and all of them except the papyrus were free, because I have propagated tons of plants from single starting plants or else from saved seeds.  Cool, huh?  Hey, they grow like weeds.

If it's Sunday, it must be Tlacolula

No matter how screwed up the politics are here, and where aren't they screwed up, they are a mere blip on the Oaxacan horizon.  There are way too many positives, places, people, events and food, glorious food, to dampen the the real spirit of the place.  With 10,000 years of history, if they are one thing, Oaxacans are resilient and determined.

And there is no better way experience all of the above than to go to the Sunday market in Tlacolula.  So back we went.  These are all hip shots, shot from the hip so as not to disturb the flow... and not to get the evil eye sent my way.  Holding a camera up and pointing directly at someone changes everything, but most of the time all you have to do is ask in a polite way and voila.... "I am ready for my closeup, Mr. DeMille...."  But I love shooting blind from the hip.  I never know if my aim is even close, but with practice.... one gets better.

When one enters the market proper there is a phalanx of many women all selling tlayudas or tortillas.  It is quite crowded and you have to force yourself through, but the temptations are right in your face.

Speaking of faces...

I have been there so many times, I am starting to recognize people who are there selling their wares each week.  This abulea always has a special charm, an aura, around her.  We always talk to her about her beautiful traje, her outfit.

 I forget which village she comes from.... next time.

This is my seed man.  Last week he had an old peso piece, a large coin, about the size of a silver dollar.  He was flicking his wrist and bouncing it off the cement floor.  The thing rang like a bell.  He smiled and repeated it a few times. And he was the center of attention for a brief moment and it was a wonderful moment at that.

It ain't all sunshine and light

I've avoided writing about the continuing political and social problems here mainly because, it is getting so old. It is debilitating. And the wheels continue to come off at an alarming rate. 

The Seccion XXII planton continues in the zocalo into its fifth or sixth week.  Remember all this action started before the guelaguetza.  As I say, it is getting real old.  They have been more aggressive, trashing building and causing havoc.  And the police and the governor... their hands must be tied, because they look ineffectual.  Cue is taking a beating in the papers and op/ed pages.

And this yesterday, from Noticias (click for pics)

Teachers of section 22 of the National Union of education workers (SNTE), belonging to the regions of Central Valley and isthmus of Tehuantepec, stormed the home of the Secretary for Legal Affairs of section 59 of the SNTE, Pedro Caballero Bolaños, in the San Martín Mexicapan municipal agency, yesterday morning and stole hundreds of boxes of free text books as well as useful and school uniforms there stored packages.

And toilet paper, too.
Yes, one teachers union is stealing books and supplies from another teachers union, stealing books from kids to give to other kids. Unbelievable!

Every day, it is something different.  The new mall, the Megaplaza, just opened and was greeted with teachers and taxi drivers protests that went on for a few days.  There is more, but I won't burden you.

It gets tiring and puts a crimp on life.  I find myself avoiding all the turmoil and sticking to the Etlas to get things done.  Given that I can find everything I need outside the city, it's fine, but I know I represent a demographic and I am sure businesses are missing me in the city.  The economy must be taking a hit each week this continues, but what do I know.  Maybe the money is flowing just fine.

Tlacolula taco

One of my absolute favorite places for street food is the Sunday market in Tlacolula.  The stalls extend up the main drag for about four or five blocks up from the market proper and right at the entrance one can get the real deal.  I remember driving there five weeks in a row just to get one of their gorditas. This a one day a week thing, only Sundays. The jefe, the boss, is a young guy who is a mechanic the rest of the week.  They do a very brisk business and everything is so tasty.  He gave us a sample of their chicharron and it was outta this world, like crunchy bacon, but better.

They butcher one pig each week and it cooks for twelve hours in oil.  People request different parts and we are talkin' every part.  I know some people like the fattier parts, but I stick to masisa, pure meat, and wow, it is so good. 

The finished product in all its glory.

Chopped up on the spot.

And a perfect unadorned taco. 

The adornments include onions, lime, guacamole, salsas verde and roja. And their gorditas are filled with all sorts of goodness. And that is sour cream, which just adds to pleasure.... but no calories or anything like that.

Back for more in a couple of days.

Stick figure

How about this guy I found on my screen door this morning?

I would venture a guess and say it might just be a..... wait for it.... stick insect.

He stayed for a few hours, but I guess he couldn't stick around.  Amazing looking, isn't it?

Tlacolula Sunday

Yes, more Tlacolula, mainly because it is such a great place, full of so many different things.  For me, it is better than a museum or a movie or even Disneyland, not that I would ever go.  One is surrounded my sights and smells.  As you walk, the aromas hit the nose, chocolate, mezcal, roasted chicken, barbacoa, barbeque, flowers, fruit, copal.  My mouth is always watering .  But really, it is the visuals playing before your eyes that make it so wonderful.  Look at the size of those tlayudas, the baked tortillas.  They are so big, I'm not even sure that they are tlayudas.  Confirmation will be made this week.

These are all hip shots, you know, shot from the hip, so the quality varies.  Look at the large cabbage leaf she is using to wrap things up.

Beautiful marigolds, cempasuchil, an important flower for many reasons, dying wool just being one of them.

"Chapulines?"  "No, gracias.  I have plenty eating the zinnias in my garden."

Buy your meat and veggies and cook them right up on these braziers.

 The aromas... ahhh.

And look at this amazing produce.  We are sooo spoiled here.

Lastly, people are so friendly, so easy to talk to and share experiences.  The great thing is, as entertained as I am by the whole thing, they feel the same about me.

The feeling is mutual.