Nueve dias - Arnulfo Mendoza (1954-2014)

Nine days after he died, as tradition dictates, there was another ritual for the dear departed, Arnulfo Mendoza Ruiz, the master weaver and artist from the Zapotec village of Teotitlan del Valle.  It was a somber occasion, but like most ceremonies celebrating someone's life, there were moments of beauty and levity.

The day started at his parents house with a meal.  There was a sand painting, a tapete de arena, that was blessed, divided and collected to be spread later on the grave.  I missed that part, but I imagine the sand tapete looked something like this one from last Muertos.

I arrived for the mass at the church. 

Upon completion, there began the final procession to the panteon or cemetery with most everyone carrying white flowers to be placed on the grave. 

The cross, which had be blessed during the mass and will mark the grave, was lain on a table and carried, balanced on the head. 

 

 

The sand from the tapete.

 

Led by the band, we walked the same streets we had for the funeral procession, but this time, the route was shorter with a stop at Tlamanali, the famous restaurant owned and operated by Arnulfo's sisters.  Here, we filed by the family's altar and paid our respects. 

The air was filled will smoke from copal and we sat, had a mezcal, talked and cried.  The band periodically played and the mezcal worked its magic.  It was the Zapotec equivalent to an Irish wake, but not quite so boisterous.  After an hour or so, it was time to process to the panteon. 

 

It was a serene walk.

In a cloud of copal smoke, the procession arrived at the panteon.

The cross for the grave.

 The sand from the tapete was spread.

 His sisters placed the flowers on the grave.

As people moved off to sit, drink and talk, this was the final tranquil setting.

I found the whole experience to be quite moving.  I have been blessed and honored to see many celebrations and events in Teotitlan del Valle, but this was my first funeral.  The Zapotec culture is one from which I have learned much.  This sad celebration of such an important figure and friend just added to and enhanced my love and appreciation for the people of this village.  It will take some time to fully process all of it, but I look forward to sharing my thoughts and a mezcal with the maestro this coming Muertos.  I'll be there and I know Arnulfo will be as well.

Thousand words...

Anti π rant on Pi Day

I like pie, but after this, pi, not so much. 

Carnival in San Martin Tilcajete

It's a family affair...

Even though it seems like ages ago, last week was carnival and this year I stayed closed to home to see the fun in San Martin Tilcajete.  Blogger buddy, Shannon, has a nice informative post over at Casa Colibri. The village is one of the most famous woodcarving villages, but for carnival it was all about the look.  This guy has a couple of wooden masks that look to be very traditional.

I was surprised to find that this was, Jose, one of my good friends from Teotitlan del Valle.  He loves to dance and he loves to put on his devil outfit even more. 

I love the look of these two brothers. 

Wonderful expressions.

A classic look.

But that is used motor oil and I bet they still have some on them two weeks later.  That stuff is hard to get off.  I know from personal experience.... that's my regular mosh pit look.  The oil make 'em just slide off.  Scary?

For sure!

This all culminates with Semana Santa, with lots in bewtween.

Just waitin' for the bus

More carnival shots in a bit...

Another sad day - Arnulfo Mendoza (1954-2014)

The house of Arnulfo Mendoza sits high atop a hill overlooking Teotitlan del Valle and that is where many people gathered to pay their final farewells to the maestro.  There was a band.  There were flowers.  The men sat in one area and the women in another according to tradition.  The mood was somber, but not overwhelmingly sad.  People talked and drank a little, shared stories and memories.

Then the casket was lifted and the long procession to the church began.  The hill was very steep and the pallbearers stopped regularly to catch their breaths.  It may have taken an hour to make it down to the church, but really, I lost track of time.

It was difficult to watch his family and friends grieve for I have my own grief.  I was still Arnulfo's photographer and I had shot him in so many places and circumstances, I think he would have wanted me to keep shooting.  However, behind it all, there are many personal connections.  Not only was he my friend, but there was my ongoing work with Arnulfo and my connections to his extended family and to many in Teotitlan del Valle, one of my favorite places in all the world.  So I just kept shooting.

Here is his cousin, Sergio Ruiz, whose wedding I photographed.  That is Gabriel, Arnulfo's son just behind him.

The casket was carried into the church and a mass followed.

Then the long procession to the panteon or cemetery.  We walked the same route that they walk for the confites except we ended up at the panteon.

 

It was a long walk.  The band played somber music.  The casket was rested on a portable platform while the pallbearers caught a break and blessings were made.

Finally, we arrived at the panteon where the grave awaited.  And after a few speeches, Arnulfo Mendoza was laid to rest.

The atmosphere was tranquil.  There were moments of abject grief and soon thereafter, moments of calm and levity.

Of course, I took shots of the family, but they deserve privacy.  However, this one of Arnulfo's wife, son and mother made me cry.

Above all, there were those magical qualities of community and tradition that held the whole thing, and me, together.

A sad day - Arnulfo Mendoza (1954-2014)

One of Oaxaca's most important figures died yesterday.  Arnulfo Mendonza, a good friend, a good man and a great artist, passed suddenly, leaving a stunned large extended family and even larger community of friends and admirers.  I am just one of them.

Maestro Arnulfo was certainly one of Oaxaca's most famous weavers, if not the most famous.

He was multi-faceted in his artistic endeavors, including, painting, embroidery, printing, metalwork, and design, in addition to running a renown gallery.

I spent a lot of time with the maestro this last year or so, as I was his photographer for an upcoming book about the artists of Oaxaca.  The word of his death traveled quickly and many people went to Mano Magica to express condolences.  Tomorrow, I along with many others will travel to his family's house in Teotitlan del Valle to pay homage and to shed a few more tears.

 

I think is is one of the saddest shots I have taken.

That is the hat is always wore on the foot of his casket.

Protests? What protests??

Both local newspapers are running similar stories.

From noticiasmx.

Social organizations have besieged Oaxaca. Only from January 2012 to February this year there were 3 thousand 946 mobilizations, figure representing an increase of 141% in the incidence of protests in just two years. In addition to that in the first 59 days of 2014 589 demonstrations arose in all the State, total that translates into an average of nine demonstrations a day, according to information from the Secretariat of public security (SSP).

If the trend persists in the index of mobilizations in the eight regions of the State, will mean that at the end of this year the citizenship must withstand 3,000 354 protests, ranging from taking office, blockades to marches. To understand the magnitude, that would be equivalent to the sum of the protests staged by social organizations through the streets and roads of Oaxaca in the previous two years, as between 2012 and 2013 were 3 thousand 357, only three more than the estimate for this year.

They are social organizations that lead the diversity of groups that come out to the streets of the State, including: CODECI, MULT, MULTI, RPF, FALP, UCIZONI, UGOCEP, among others, as the list grows to analyze each year.

Someone did the math and that is nine protests a day.... oops, gotta go and see if I can pay bills in the city.   I dare not protest those.

Also, too, it is most interesting to imagine how police would handle these protests in other countries....  a scary thought. 

Piñas the way they are supposed to be...

"Ain't nothing like the real thing, baby" and so it was yesterday as I stopped to get a piña from this woman.  She and her family have a prime corner spot for Wednesday's market and they do a very brisk business.  I have finally figured out that it is much easier to buy a nice cleaned and sliced piña from her than to get a whole one and chop it up at home.  I mean, it is always a bit messy.  In fact, you can buy lots of fruits this way, ready to eat.  Look at those watermelon, sandias.

She was really nice yesterday and picked out a nice big one for me and went at it.  What can I say?  She is a professional and 1..2..3.., she was handing me a sticky bag, filled with beautiful slices.   It was so fragrant that it filled the car with a heavenly aroma.  So.... I ate it.

Jacarandas.....

 

I've noticed that the jacarandas on this side of the city, the north, are way ahead of the ones to the south in terms of blossoming.  The road to Ocotlan is lined with them almost the entire way and very few were in flower a couple of days ago.  However, on this side.... they can stop traffic...

Well, maybe just me.  I saw this one on my way to the market in Etla yesterday and on the way back, stopped the car and crossed the Pan-American highway to get these shots.  The house I lived in last year is just behind the tree... sorta.

Fat Tuesday done right

Mardi Gras, Fat Tuesday, what better way to celebrate than to get a little fatter with a good meal?  And so it was, sitting under a canopy of huge trees alongside the road to Ocotlan, we escaped the hot sun and were blessed to have an unexpectedly good meal.

I have driven by this place many times and it is always inviting and crowded, a good sign, but have never stopped before.  This time, I actually drove into the parking areas of two other restaurants, only to say, "No, this doesn't feel right."  But this place certainly felt right.

We talked with the ladies as we watched them cook.  It was like a TV cooking show, great entertainment.

And the food?  Really good.  Carnitas in salsa roja.

A wonderful salad with oaxe pods for which Oaxaca is named.  They kinda taste like little lima beans.

And of course, it was carnival and those fotos will be up in a while.....

It's that time of year - Jacarandas

The "artist formerly known as" would love this time of year for everywhere one looks, you can see big splashes of the most glorious purple.

Right on schedule, the jacarandas have exploded.

The horror!

OMG!  How could I have missed this statue which adorns the tiny zocalo in San Pablo Etla?  I mean,  I drive by it almost every day.  Why are the residents not up in arms?  Where are the  moral conservatives to denounce this pornographic blight upon the community.  Where are the politicians to cover her up?  Think of the children!! I mean, there is a school not more than twenty meters away. 

Oh, no one cares.  They seem to like it, if they even notice it.  I will need to investigate... or at least find out what the story it behind it and who she is.

My other car is a.....

Look at my nice new shiny (for the time being) wheelbarrow or carretilla.  Picture me vey happy.

Cornering the market

Corner art.

A different form of art meant to really stay with you.

Nice and shiny.

Just your local casket and coffin shop.

And nowhere near as expensive as you might think.  I got a couple just for the heck of it.  You never know when you may need a backup.  The silver one in back looks like the road case for my piano.

What did one casket say to the other?  Is that you coffin?