Feelin' blue

Not really, but after seeing red, the previous post, why not go with the flow.  For some reason, they were passing out blue balloons in front of Santo Domingo and even the statues were into it.

I have no idea why or what it was all about, maybe something political or a social club, but they all looked pretty happy.  If you look closely they cracked a smile. 

A blue balloon as a fashion accessory.

And finally today, beautiful blue skies! 

Head in the clouds

It has been a strange week of weather with lots of clouds, cool temperatures and very heavy rains, depending on location.  Here, there have been some nice steady rains into the late evening and my cistern is full, this house having a decent rain collection system that works well.  This is one of the views out the back of the house and this patchwork of fields reaching into the mountains is one of my favorites.

 

I forget how rugged the country is up in and beyond those peaks.  With all the blockades and construction, I thought I would try a road I've always wanted to, the Libramiento Norte, the old free road that goes through the mountains and ends up coming into the city from the north.  I drive by it everyday, but it is in such bad shape, dirt and potholes, I only go to the stores at its beginning.  Here's what it looks like on the map.  Those mountains would be in the top left and the city, the bottom right.

 

Anyway, Viguera had a blockade, so I thought I would see, once and for all, if it was the long scenic back way into the city.  The dirt and rough conditions continued and after driving just a couple of km. I came across this sign, a real first for me.

Needless to say, I turned around and headed back to the house.  My mama didn't raise no total fools....

Seeing red....

This is Fidel Cruz of Casa Cruz in Teotitlan del Valle as he works his magic.

He and his wife, Maria Louisa, are true masters and those are words not lightly uttered.  They are constantly experimenting with colors and new ways of producing them.  And, like many others in Teotitlan, their work is simply amazing.  You will just have to go visit them.   I was there as Fidel, working to produce the vivid red of cochineal, turned this....

 and this...

Into this.....

After sitting in this.

And this is just one of many colors, all natural, which everyone says theirs are, but theirs really are.

All of which go into their work.

And... here's one of theirs which now blesses mi casa.

 The rug, not the boy.

I'l be zinnia....

OK, a terrible play on words, but if there is one thing I can grow it is zinnias.  This is one plant that has been having flowers clipped off it for weeks.

The zinnias are on their way out at the end of what has been a nice rainy season.  Many of them are almost two meters tall.  Unfortunately, they look pretty bad below the flowering tops.  Plus, they are prone to powdery mildew, so they are being harvested and onto the compost pile.  meanwhile, the colors are vibrant.

The zinnias will reseed like crazy next year, along with the cleome, cosmos and marigolds, all of which draw lots of birds and butterflies.

This appeared to being some sort of mating dance.  It is so nice to have so many visitors.  They will be back next year, too... ojala.

La Lucha

It's a struggle... sometimes... always.... different for each of us and in different ways.

My own personal struggles are mundane, but hey, you've got to go with the problems you've got, right?  Beautiful weather, rains in the afternoon, the equinox, what could be wrong?  Well, for one, I am sorta boxed in in terms of roads.  There is major construction, a water line or something, on the back way through San Pablo Etla, making for long delays and....  the normalistas, teachers in training, have taken over the blockades at Hacienda Blanca, so that pretty much makes my normal trip to the market in Etla a lot tougher.  Oh well....

Then heading into the city, the normal potholes and major construction of the metro bus lane and... a tunnel being dug on El Fortin, the major access to the city, the Pan American Highway!!  So it is one lane onto dirt both ways, coming and going.  Backups much?

What is crazy about this, is that it just started with very little notice and that's how it's been for a few years.  First, the guelaguetza roof, a whole other story.  Then, a convention center proposal that got nixed.  I think it was a ruse to get a parking garage built.  Again, not much notice and major objections to the plan from neighbors.  Then, a hastily constructed walkover for the guelaguetza,  Of course, now the garage needs access ramps and voila, they rip up everything and start a huge project and dig up everything and obviously, a tunnel.  I can't imagine how long it will take.

I read the papers everyday and I never saw any mention of any of this.  Maybe I was remiss, but given the nature of political activism here, I would have suspected that folks would have raised an uproar.  Sadly, it just seems like business as usual.  Of course, the alternative way into the city is under construction, too.

Just as an aside, I survived the Big Dig in Boston, a twenty year ordeal that ended up working out quite well.  So maybe this will be fine.  And really, driving here is what it is, crazy.  However, one always gets there in the end, no matter how hard the struggle.... but they sure are making things tougher.

It's a bird, it's a plane..... it's a bird

As the heavy weather moved in yesterday afternoon, I saw one of the tops of the very tall trees off in the distance bending way over.  It turned out to be a large bird who seemed to be taking in the scene as the storms moved in over the vast valley to the west.  I ran into the house and grabbed a camera and voila....

Looks like some sort of eagle, but I don't know.... Anyone? Anyone? ... Bueller?
Update:  a comment from Julie  Schubert clues me in.  It's a caracara!

Still - Life

These essentials can be found in almost every home out in the campo.  These from the courtyard of the church in Teotitlan del Valle.

Brooms, a mop and a wheelbarrow, the only thing missing is a machete.  With them, one can tackle almost anything.

Another feria

Maybe it is like this in other places and there are fairs every week, but Oaxaca sure shines in this area.  Maybe it is because there are so many unique aspects and things to celebrate.  From corn to mezcal to tamales to dance to food, it just keeps going.  And so at the top of the Alacala, the pedestrian walkway, the first annual Feria de Emprendedores en Movimiento, Entrepreneurs in Motion.

And it was happening.  This is looking north just above Santo Domingo.

And looking south from the other end.  Lots of different things for sale, food, plants, crafts, clothing and more.

I was overwhelmed and made it through without getting anything, but I plan on going back.

"I just want a little ceremony, nothing too fancy"

I went into the city to check things out.... things were normal, the zocalo still free of vendors and full of people having a good time..... and ran across this wedding coming out of Santo Dominogo. 

Just a typical little boda....

with dancers, a band and a parade.  No, this was the real thing, as only in Oaxaca.

First rule of wedding photography:  The bride must look good.

 Photo op.

 A kiss... and then it was off to parade through the streets.

This was an hour later..... "Whew, I gotta get outta these shoes and into my Chucks."

Sign of the times

"Welcome to Oaxaca, the city of the resistance."  Pretty much and more...

Like the pipas, the water trucks, the street vendor, the traffic, the signage, all with the guelaguetza as a backdrop.  This is all right next to the monument at Viguera.  It is not always like this, but no matter what, this place is still wonderful, vibrant. 

Oh, I'm ready for El Grito at 11 tonight and Independence Day mañana.  It will sound like a battle zone with all the cohetes, fire crackers and rockets.  It is really amazing to hear them from my perch, as I am up overlooking a huge area.  They sound from everywhere.... it is crazy.... and glorious.

Plumas in Teotitlan del Valle

Beautiful light for the danzantes as they performed la danza de la pluma in Teotitlan del Valle last week.  This is only a glimpse of the whole which can run from three to eight hours in length.

The rumors were right...

I had heard that the ambulantes or vendors who had been in the zocalo for weeks/months/years, who knows, were going to be moved out in preparation for El Grito, the national holiday, this week.  Well, the police moved in late at night and voila...  This is a pretty regular move, a nice Oaxacan kabuki play.  They will return.......

Some vendors moved to side streets.  I saw them setting up, but it was nice to see the wide open spaces again.  Here was the northwest corner of the zocalo today.  Yes, there are still tents.

Here's what it looked like last week,

 It takes.....

There were even some folks sitting in the restaurants lining the zocalo.

 Barriers are up with very low key police presence.

 I also checked out the new roof over the Benito Juarez mercado.  I guess it is brighter.

Exciting, isn't it?

Recovery complete!

And finally, here's Daniel Ruiz Ruiz, a.k.a. Edgar, right where he should be...... dancing in front of the church in his hometown, Teotitlan del Valle.  Vale la pena!

The light was absolutely glorious, as were the dancers. 

More in a bit, but hey, it was so great to see Daniel dancing with this very special group of dancers.  Yay!

Worth the Wait - Vasallo Edgar Daniel Ruiz Ruiz

Finally...

This is Daniel Ruiz Ruiz in all his glory as a Vasallo in the group of danzantes from Teotitlan del Valle.  You will recall that just before the group's first performance and the big time in the guelaguetza, he had an emergency appendicitis and could not dance after months of practicing. 

 

So it was wonderful to see him and the group last Friday in Santiago Matatlán a.k.a. "World Capital Of Mezcal."  His father, Mario, was there and it was so nice to share the moment with him. 

After a quick trip to the church, it was showtime.

They are such a good group of dancers.  It was a pity that the canopy gave it such a psychedelic background.... and the poles did not help. but it kept the intense sun off, so a blessing.  Plus, I like psychedelic.

However, they are dancing the danza de la pluma this week in Teotitlan under open skies and we will be there.