Carnaval in Teotitland del Valle is very different from most. First, it is after Easter, not before Lent. And second, it is a movable fiesta that goes from village section to village section and culminates after five days with a grand gathering at the municipal center.
We caught the action on the second day so, Segunda Seccion, here we come. As in all things in the village there is an over arching sense of formality and tradition... no matter how much mezcal gets imbibed. There is music and food and dancing, all following a pre-described order. We got there early and left before lots of the action, but will be back on Friday to catch the final celebration.
The stars of the show are los viejitos, who are absolutely hilarious... purely in Zapoteco... but one still finds oneself laughing along with everyone else.
They do their dance and lead the band to the house where everyone is waiting.
There is much merriment and then a meal. Delicious mole rojo. No knives or forks or spoons, only tortillas. No, no chopsticks either.
And then more dancing.... which I hope to catch on Friday. Today it is section three's turn, different house, different viejitos, then, on to four and finally section five. Then recovery...
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