Procession of Silence - 2015 - Procesión del Silencio

Good Friday's Procession of Silence is one of the most powerful moments of Semana Santa.  Thousands of people line the procession's route to see this traditional event.  This was the 29th anniversary and it seems like it gets bigger every years even though it is really almost the same.  The statues from various churches are carried through the streets as thousands of people silently watch them pass.

It is hard work, real penance.

Light and daylight savings time always plays a role in getting decent shots.  This year the gods were not with us and it was almost dark before the whole thing even started.  Check out the waiting game as chronicled by Casa Colibri.

It got dark, so I split, but I managed to get into the thick of things and got some nice shots before the light went.  In fact, it will take a few days to go through them all, but here's a start.

These heavy crosses get dragged a couple of kilometers over the cobblestones by hooded men.

An arduous undertaking.

And always an ethereal moment as the only sounds one hears are the crosses hitting the stones.

 And then, of course,  there are the brightly colored hoods.

 It is not all somber.  There are always smiles and a feeling of joy.

I will post some portraits next, because the people are the best part, as always.

Meanwhile...

The crowds are back.... bigtime.

I read that the hotels were at between 85 and 95 percent occupied.  Good for businesses.  Tourism is mother's milk to the place.  It needs it and them in order to thrive.

Pascua

Good Friday - Viernes Santo - The Etlas

Before heading into the city for the Good Friday celebrations, I thought I would check out the nearby Etlas.  I live out in el campo, not near much, but no sooner had I left the house, when I saw this vision. 

Obviously, a station of the cross, but I have no idea where the others could be, but they must have been a good distance.  Does it get any better than this?  Good Friday.  Onward.  I stopped in Reyes Etla and Tres Reyes, but it was too early.  However, in Etla, where they have a full reenactment of the day, I caught a bit in the morning.

Such a beautiful and  tranquil gathering, as opposed to the thousands who will be in the city later.

It is different in each village, but in all of them, there is faith and reverence in abundance. 

Much more shortly.  But how about this rare daytime casillo from a couple of years ago?

If a tree falls....

Some trees are more important than others.  Sadly, they do not live forever, even though the one in El Tule seems timeless at around 1500 years.  So it was with sadness, that I paid my respects to this old beauty in the zocalo in San Bartolo Coyotepec.  The village, famous for its black pottery and folk art museum, has a large tranquil zocalo, that is always very well maintained.  I have killed a lot of time sitting under that tree's branches, just watching the world go by.  I have no idea what caused it to split so badly and lose most of it branches.  There is some controversy as to who did or did not do something.  However, the deed it done.  I watched them water it and they emptied water trucks pretty regularly.  It had a good life and it will leave a huge hole.  I am sure they will plant something to replace it and in time.....

Meanwhile this was happening right next to fallen tree.  Life goes on.....

Palm Sunday in San Antonino - part 2 - The procession

After all offerings had been made and all the fruit, vegetables, breads had been carefully tied around El Burro, it was time for the procession to the church, where hundreds of people awaited its arrival for mass.  These gentlemen were ready to cover the path with rose petals.

And here they go.

It is about a kilometer to the church.  Imagine the weight.

This celebration operates on several levels.  One of them is the penitence of many in the procession.  Certainly for the men carrying the statue, it must be a very powerful experience.  I can only imagine how much it all weighs... looks like about a million kilos to me.  The effort, the strain on the faces.

The procession left promptly at around eleven in the morning, and led by drums and a whistle, followed by the priest and all the altar boys and girls and then hundreds of people, all carrying something, all walked in the clear morning sun.

A wonderful colorful parade of happy people.

Carrying all manner of things.

All manner of things...

A family affair.

Getting into the courtyard is always a challenge.

Followed by all the offerings.

There were some hairy moments as the men struggled to get the heavy weight in place.

But after several tense moments,

They did it.

It was time for the mass, or for this heathen, lunch time.  Next, the final part, details and faces.

Palm Sunday in San Antonino - part 1 - Offerings

Domingo de Ramos is one of the best days of the year, especially if you are blessed to be in San Antonino Castillo Velasco or its other name, San Antonino de Flores.  This is a village in the broad flat valley between the mountain ranges.  There is good water there all though the year and wow, they can really grow things.  Everything from fruits and vegetables to flowers is just exceptional.  And Palm Sunday is the day everyone brings an offering.  Much of it is tied in place surrounding El Burro, the statue of Christ from the church in the zocalo.

This being a Zapotec area, the work is divided between men and women.  The men take the things to be placed and draped on the statue.  The women take the offerings and affix a price to each, for all will be carried in a procession to the church and then sold to raise money.

 

All I can say is that the system works.  It is a magical morning.  The sense of community is inspiring and energizing.  This is the way it is supposed to be.

There is so much to this celebration, I thought I would break it down into parts.  First, the offerings that people bring.  Fruits, vegetables, breads, goats, pigs, chiles, herbs, kitchen items, an amazingly wide assortment.  All of these are received by the abuelas and madres of the family responsible for organizing the event. No doubt, some sort of cargo, or assigned communal work, which I am sure is an honor.

Just look at this acelga, chard.

Or these cabbages.  Incredible.

San Antonino de Flores, for sure.

It was fun to watch this niño carry in this squash.

"Uh, here, doña."

These offerings keep coming for a couple of hours and some are attached to the statue, but the vast majority are collected and labeled. They fill up a large area next to the panteon's wall.  All waiting to be carried up to the church.  And of course, all the animals provide endless entertainment for kids and adults alike.

The day touches all the senses.  There was music and, because people had brought so many bundles of fresh herbs, the air was filled with the most powerful and wonderful fragrances. 

One thing, the red and green canopy overhead did a number all the shots under it, but who cares?  It was great.  One of the best days of the year.  Next, the procession.

Palm Sunday lunch

I will get to the actual Palm Sunday or Domingo de Ramos celebration we attended in San Antonino Castillo Velasco, but first.... this lady makes the best empanadas and we always have such a good time with her.  The filling has a polenta like consistency.... masa with flor de calabaza or cilatro and pork.

I mean, look at this thing.  I want another... right... now!

I always joke with her and say, "You know I don't really like them, but I think I need another."
She welcomed us with a shot of mezcal from nearby Santa Catarina de Minas, and it was sublime.... and totally kicked my ass as a non-drinker on an empty stomach.  She is wearing an example of the embroidery for which the village is so famous.

It was mighty fine.  And when offered mezcal, it is a sign of welcome and respect, I always accept it.  It's an honor.... with a nice buzz.  Now that lunch is posted... on to the real deal.