If a tree falls...

This is one of my favorite trees.  It sits atop a hill overlooking the valley that stretches from Atzompa all the way to the Etlas.  I've sat under it, as I know many others have. 

It has a wonderful fragrance and the locals know that if you rub its leaves on your temples and around your eyes, it relieves stress. And it is/was in a prime spot for a lightning strike. 

And so it goes.

There is new growth, so in a few years....  for now, there are still leaves to relieve our stress.... and memories

If a tree falls....
 

Get on the bus for real...

OMG! Another bus post?? (I got a million of 'em) As a followup to the previous followup, I finally got shots of one of my favorite tour buses.  It is just so perfectly Oaxaca. 

The jaguar mask on the top front is a version of a ubiquitous classic woodcarving. 

The brown low border is filled with images of the stone work in Mitla. 

The back is equally stunning, a work of art. 

The front ... classic alebije style.

They must have had so much fun designing and creating this bus.  Oaxaca at its best!  So get on the bus, Gus.

Get on the bus...

As a follow-up, here's a side shot of the tourist bus from the other day, covered with some iconic Oaxacan images, including Lila Downs who is currently on a very successful European tour.  There are other buses which are quite beautiful. I'll keep my eyes open for them.  Of course, if you want one with a slightly different spirit... in the alcoholic sense, there's always the bottle bus.

A well known adage here, "Para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien, también.  For everything bad that happens, there's mescal, and for everything good, there's still mescal."

What are these people looking at?

I mean, not just the guy taking their picture from the pool hall.  Just like any modern city, Oaxaca has its own Hop On-Hop Off buses.  There are quite a few of these double-deckers offering tours in English and Spanish.  So what might they see on a typical day in Oaxaca?

A quinceañera photo shoot.

Incredibly cute kids.

Wonderful street art.

Things that make you think.

Lots of motos.

And mezcal... and dancers.

And more things that make you think.

Guelaguetza in Viguera...

I discovered something special....  Yesterday, on the last Monday of the month, I went up the foothills to nearby Trinidad de Viguera.  My local fruit vendor said there was a guelaguetza there on the cancha or basketball court and what a beautiful event it turned out to be. 

My fruit lady immediately saw me and gave me a big hug, so I was cool as the only gringo for kms..   The first thing I noticed was how many young people were there, dressed up and ready to dance. And they were dancing dances I had never seen before.

There were less than five hundred people there and I bet half of them were kids. 

The whole vibe or flavor of the event was so heart-warming.  I felt like I had a real insight into the whole guelaguetza  thing. 

I saw such pride, joy and togetherness, like no other time.   Everybody was a part of it because they were all family. 

Watching parents get with their kids before and after they danced was just so sweet.  And of course, I teared up for the Flor de Piña, as I always do.

There were adults dancing, too and a folkloric group from Xoxo, which was quite good. 

The best part was that it was mostly just the people from Viguera and that made it much more intimate.  And the food was real good, too!

Rebozos - Traditional and yet not...

There is a wonderful exhibition of rebozos just across from Santo Domingo, once again showing off the brilliance of Oaxacan artists and culture. 

These beautiful pieces really push the limits of what is a very traditional garment. 

The ones of the indigeous women wearing trajes are by Alejando Cruz and the prices range fro 30,000 to 70,000 pesos ($1800 to 4100 US).

Rebozos are ubiquitous here and every village has a different way of wearing them. 

From Wikipedia. "It can be worn in various ways, usually folded or wrapped around the head and/or upper body to shade from the sun, provide warmth and as an accessory to an outfit. It is also used to carry babies and large bundles, especially among indigenous women" 

However, I don't think these will be carrying any babies. 

They all have the traditional woven fringes called rapacejos, which is another whole art unto itself. 

Oaxaca at its most creative and beautiful.

Oaxaca at its best....

July is simply the best month of the year here.  The city is filled with people... and art, music, dance and food, glorious, food.  And Oaxaca knows what it's doing.  There are large, absolutely gorgeous photos prominently placed along the sidewalks.

Really, these are some of the best shots I've ever seen, large, crisp and beautiful. 

There is also a large exhibition of, maybe, 200 photos from all over the state in front of the governor's palace that must be seen. 

The shots of people in their regional outfits and settings are absolutely amazing. 

Or how about the display of rebozos in front of Santo Domingo? 

More of those later.

Reyes Etla Guelaguetza

This is the calenda or procession that opened the guelaguetza in Reyes Etla, Oaxaca on July 17, 2023. The Guelaguetza is a long performance of traditional dances from all over the state. The official one is in the city but many village present their own versions which are more intimate.

It's beginning to look like... Guelaguetza

The city is abuzz as the official guelaguetza dances take place the next two Mondays, but there is so much more happening. 

Tomorrow, the first of the desfiles, or parades of the delegations of dancers from all over the state, takes place, and it is always simply the best.  Be there or be square... or watch it on CORTV. 

These figures grace the corners of the zocalo and I like them. 

They are good representations of the traditional clothing that the dancers wear.

Of course, you can see all of the real outfits in the next couple of weeks. I'll be there for you.

Oaxaca at its finest. 

I will be heading into the city for the desfiles and then, on Monday, off to Reyes Etla for their verions of the dance festival.