Guelaguetza in Viguera...

I discovered something special....  Yesterday, on the last Monday of the month, I went up the foothills to nearby Trinidad de Viguera.  My local fruit vendor said there was a guelaguetza there on the cancha or basketball court and what a beautiful event it turned out to be. 

My fruit lady immediately saw me and gave me a big hug, so I was cool as the only gringo for kms..   The first thing I noticed was how many young people were there, dressed up and ready to dance. And they were dancing dances I had never seen before.

There were less than five hundred people there and I bet half of them were kids. 

The whole vibe or flavor of the event was so heart-warming.  I felt like I had a real insight into the whole guelaguetza  thing. 

I saw such pride, joy and togetherness, like no other time.   Everybody was a part of it because they were all family. 

Watching parents get with their kids before and after they danced was just so sweet.  And of course, I teared up for the Flor de Piña, as I always do.

There were adults dancing, too and a folkloric group from Xoxo, which was quite good. 

The best part was that it was mostly just the people from Viguera and that made it much more intimate.  And the food was real good, too!

Rebozos - Traditional and yet not...

There is a wonderful exhibition of rebozos just across from Santo Domingo, once again showing off the brilliance of Oaxacan artists and culture. 

These beautiful pieces really push the limits of what is a very traditional garment. 

The ones of the indigeous women wearing trajes are by Alejando Cruz and the prices range fro 30,000 to 70,000 pesos ($1800 to 4100 US).

Rebozos are ubiquitous here and every village has a different way of wearing them. 

From Wikipedia. "It can be worn in various ways, usually folded or wrapped around the head and/or upper body to shade from the sun, provide warmth and as an accessory to an outfit. It is also used to carry babies and large bundles, especially among indigenous women" 

However, I don't think these will be carrying any babies. 

They all have the traditional woven fringes called rapacejos, which is another whole art unto itself. 

Oaxaca at its most creative and beautiful.

Oaxaca at its best....

July is simply the best month of the year here.  The city is filled with people... and art, music, dance and food, glorious, food.  And Oaxaca knows what it's doing.  There are large, absolutely gorgeous photos prominently placed along the sidewalks.

Really, these are some of the best shots I've ever seen, large, crisp and beautiful. 

There is also a large exhibition of, maybe, 200 photos from all over the state in front of the governor's palace that must be seen. 

The shots of people in their regional outfits and settings are absolutely amazing. 

Or how about the display of rebozos in front of Santo Domingo? 

More of those later.

Reyes Etla Guelaguetza

This is the calenda or procession that opened the guelaguetza in Reyes Etla, Oaxaca on July 17, 2023. The Guelaguetza is a long performance of traditional dances from all over the state. The official one is in the city but many village present their own versions which are more intimate.

It's beginning to look like... Guelaguetza

The city is abuzz as the official guelaguetza dances take place the next two Mondays, but there is so much more happening. 

Tomorrow, the first of the desfiles, or parades of the delegations of dancers from all over the state, takes place, and it is always simply the best.  Be there or be square... or watch it on CORTV. 

These figures grace the corners of the zocalo and I like them. 

They are good representations of the traditional clothing that the dancers wear.

Of course, you can see all of the real outfits in the next couple of weeks. I'll be there for you.

Oaxaca at its finest. 

I will be heading into the city for the desfiles and then, on Monday, off to Reyes Etla for their verions of the dance festival.

Good to be back...

OK, I've been back a couple of weeks, but most of that time went to fixing various car problems... and trying to stay cool as Oaxaca, and most of Mexico, is in a heat wave with no rain.  However, I finally made it out to my Wednesday tiangui or street market to shop. "Hey, it's the big gringo, abuelito!"

It is so nice to be greeted by the people I see and buy from each week. 

This is shopping the way it should be....  really good food and really good people.

Pilgrimage (It's Chinatown, Jake)

Every trip to Boston, I jump on the T and head to the market in Chinatown. I always get off and walk, taking in the iconic sights. This time it was a gorgeous spring day. And finally, through the Chinatown gate and into the large market filled with all the best food and condiments. For me, it's the best soy sauce and sesame oil. Another successful pilgrimage.

In plain sight....

Femicide, or the “intentional murder of women because they are women,” is one of the worst problems plaguing Mexico  In Oaxaca, the numbers are staggering.  There are protests, but the horrors continue.  I did not know what I was seeing when I shot this bit of street art, but when I finally recognized what it was conveying, it was chilling. 

So this happened...

Easily one of the scariest and most violent storms I've experienced in Oaxaca happened last evening.  First, came the howling winds which were so strong they toppled trees.  Then came very heavy rains blown by those winds.  Then came the hail, granizo.  It was deafening and I worried, because it was being blown sideways, that it would break the windows.  It didn't, but it actually took the paint off the facing walls, like they were sandblasted, as you can see in the photo.  And the poor plants and trees.... shredded, with tiny pieces fo leaves covering the ground. There was a similar storm on the other side of the city two days ago in Teotitlan and Tlacolula.  They had even more hail and serious flooding.  Strange to have such powerful storms two days in a row.

Palm Sunday - Domingo de Ramos 4/2/2023

Every year on Palm Sunday, Domingo de Ramos, the people of San Antonino Castillo Velasco in Oaxaca, Mexico cover a statue from the church with fruits, vegetables, flowers, bread and much more. Then it is carried on the backs of men of the village. There is a grand procession back to the church, Amazing to see the strain on the men's faces.

 

 

Oh, the humanity! - Samaritana....

Today was el Dia de la Samaritana, Good Samaritan's Day, and I have never seen the city so full of happy people.  How crowded was it?

This was on the Alcala, but crowds filled the streets all the way down to the zocalo. Good Samaritans, all! Oaxaca always embraces this celebration, which always falls on the fourth Friday of Lent.  People decorate stands and then offer drinks to any and all.

  Normally, it is aguas de jamaica, chilacayota, horchata and atole.

This year it was BYOC, Bring Your Own Cup, a vestige of the pandemic, but there were plenty of glasses available, too.  And the lines were crazy long.  As I said, Oaxaqueños keep these wonderful traditions going year after year by involving everyone, starting with the young. 

It really felt like after three years, everyone just wanted to share in the joy of the day. 

And maybe think a bit more about be a Good Samaritan, not just today, but every day.

They work hard for the money....

 

The Almaeda de Leon, the large walkway in front of the cathedral, leading into the zocalo, is getting a major overhaul.

I watched these workers for a while and marveled at their strength and craftsmanship. Those blocks have to weigh at least a hundred kilos or more. 

I can't imagine even lifting one, let alone doing it time after time, day after day. And this man is no youngster!  Just watching him made my back hurt.

One can see this kind of physical strength every day in many different ways here in Oaxaca.  Ladies carry serious weight balanced atop their heads.  Men unload trucks carrying crazy amounts of stuff on their backs or heads. 

This physical strength and the accompanying artistry are just two of the many different aspects of the wonder of life here.  ¡Viva Oaxaca!

Carnaval - San Martin Tilcajete - 2023

The eagle had landed.... San Martin Tilcajete was the place to be on Fat Tuesday for Carnaval.  This year even more people showed up to see the incredible costumes in this village, famous for its woodcarving. And they did not disappoint.... 

The day is centered around a "wedding" that takes place in front of the municipal building.  Here's the lucky bride before the ceremony. 

And the groom dancing with a turkey, a tradition here. 

There were all sorts of amazing looks.  "Beakboy" covered with oil. 

A young version of Mr. Death. 

A nice example of the alebrije painting for which the village is renown.

And styles all their own. 

No better place to be any time, but especially for Carnaval.... and always an import village to visit for anyone coming to Oaxaca.

Carnaval Calenda 2023

A little taste of yesterday's calenda in the city as we get ready for Tuesday and the real thing.

Carnaval - Un beso para Orfeo

christopher stowens · Carnaval