La Noche del Rabanos - Early edition

Yes, it is La Noche del Rabanos, the Night of the Radishes, but this annual event draws so many people, more every year, that one has to get there quite early in the day to see the real action.

Porfirio Diaz in all his radish glory

And that action is the setup, the creation of real works of art in three areas: rabanos or radishes, dried flowers or flor inmortal and totomoxtle or corn husk figures (both natural and colored).  This flor work was very large, thousands of flowers, months of work.

I got there around 10 AM and unlike previous years, there was easy access to the folks setting up.  This lasted a while, but after they closed it off, that press pass came in handy.  So much fun to meet all the artists.

I think the one thing I noticed that was different this year was that there were so many young people participating in the competition.  Look at this incredible piece in natural corn husks.

I'm talking about young hip artist types as well as young people from the villages.  Very cool! 

Looks like they are going to push this tradition forward.

I left at around 1 PM.  The crowds were building, but nothing like they will be in a few hours.  As MC Hammer says, "Can't touch that." There is so much happening in the city these days.  There is music, art and traditional food, clothing and folk art everywhere.  Lots of open and free public participatory things.  This place really knows how to do it right... at times... and this is definitely one of those times.  Lots of shots to go through, but hey, this is being posted nine hours before the thing ends.  I'll rejoin humanity and the crowds tomorrow night for Noche Buena in the zocalo.  More Magic!

Rabanos! - Mañana!

They are getting ready for one of the best days and nights of the year.

They're ready and so am I.

Feria de empanadas - San Antonino Castillo Velasco

It doesn't get much better than this.  Empanadas are ubiquitous in Oaxaca, in all of Mexico.  They are everywhere and they are all just a little different.  And it is not fast food, maybe twenty minutes from the start of the process to my mouth.

And some of the very best, in my humble opinion, can be found in San Antonino Castillo Velasco, just outside of Octotlan.  The is something special about the consistency of the filling,  It is polenta-like but richer in taste. 

I have written about them just about every time I visit the village which is actually quite often, but this feria was something else.  So many from which to chose.  Hungry yet?

Fifteen or twenty different family operations cranking out these wonderful taste treats.  I barely knew where to start.  I normally get one from this woman, but I had to bring it home.   She is wearing some of her family's embroidery.

Check her out in this video.  It goes through the entire process for a couple of the women.  Each one is just a little different.  The video shows a few of the women who were working their magic.

I did manage to come home with five different ones.... and you can be sure that right after I post this I will be eating one.

Nuestra Señora de la Soledad

Yesterday was the grand finale of the festival celebrating the Mother, Queen and Patron of Oaxaca, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad and the cathedral and the surrounding streets were packed.  I had been there a day early just to get these shots because I knew I wouldn't be able to get near the place on Friday.

 A beautiful serene scene.

Friday, completely packed with the faithful.

  

Outside, people lined up to light candles

 And to receive blessings.

They rubbed bouquets of flowers on the statue and her robes and then caressed their family members, blessing them

Adorning the wall was a huge picture of La Soledad as she appeared at La Noche del Rabanos..... which is one of the best days of the year and it is next Wednesday, Dec. 23.

Be there or be square!

More of the finale - Los danzantes of Teotitlan del Valle

There were so many special moments on Saturday, as the dancers danced their final danza de la pluma.  The many hours of setup and preparation, the stately, formal and joyous arrivals of the each families, some led in by bands, all fed into the day's energy as the start approached.  Just before the dance began, each of the dancers was joined by a spouse, girlfriend, sister or mother.  Each woman was carrying a gourd filled with offerings that were distributed later.... after dancing the Jarabe with the gourds on their shoulders.  I'm kicking myself that I did not get everyone, but it happened quickly... and I hope I have their names right.  If I don't, please let me know.   They all deserve to be recognized,

Angel Ruiz Lopez

Roman Gutierrez Hipolito

Claudio Vincente Gutierrez

Francisco Javier Lazo Sosa

Gabriel Gonzalez Sanchez

Jose Antonio Ruiz Martinez

Leonardo Ruiz Lopez

Pedro Ruiz Lopez

Taurino Mendoza Martinez

I do have shots and video of all the dancers, just not in this particular moment.  I sure wish I had, but next time for sure.... I'll have three years to get ready!

A grand finale - Los Danzantes of Teotitlan del Valle

It will take a while to process all the various aspects of the final performance of la danza de la pluma by the danzantes of Teotitlan del Valle.  It was the end of a three year commitment for each of them and I'm sure it meant something different to each one of them.  It certainly meant a lot to me.  Faith, family, honor, tradition, respect, all played a part.  And all I can say is they sure did it right, something of which they can be proud for the rest of their lives.

You can see by the layout what a large affair it was and those chairs are only for the families of the dancers.  They each had a section and each family brought lots of offerings that would be exchanged later in the evening. 

After they finished each dancer gave everyone... everyone!  some little gift, some fruit or candy.  We came away with a large overflowing bag of good things... and some of the weirdest candies.

The entire village turned out and the areas behind all those chairs were filled.  They were celebrating both the Virgin of Guadalupe, and showing their love and respect for these dancers.  In Zapotec culture, respect is at the very top of the ethos.  I humbly admit, I have learned much from beholding how they comport themselves in daily life.  It's all about respect!  And dancing...

And wow, these dancers demonstrated those core values so powerfully that I thought... well, I'm still thinking about it.  

I have lots of photos and some pretty amazing video of the last dance and then, the end of it all as the dancers congratulate each other and hug, slap five, some with smiles, some with tears in their eyes.  It was a pretty sweet moment.  Jose Isaac Vasquez de los Angeles, Monctezuma....

They did themselves and their village proud.

Long to be remembered..... and much more to come.

Speechless... almost

Words fail.... such an indescribable and special time in Teotitlan del Valle yesterday as we joined the entire village to celebrate the Virgin de Gaudalupe and the final danza de la pluma by this wonderful group of dancers.  It was a spectacular end to their three year commitment.  In all my many visits to the village, I had never seen anything quite like this.  It was an honor and a privilege to be there.... and lots of fun.

So many photos and videos to go through, but for now, I am just basking in the residual feelings,  Pride, happiness and a sweet poignancy.  Much more to come.

Thanks to Shannon from Casa Colibri for the shots.

Today's the day!

If you can, please join Shannon Sheppard from Casa Colibri and me this afternoon for our presentation on the Danza de la Pluma from Teotitlan del Valle at the Oaxacan Lending Library at 5 PM. 

 We have spent three years following this group of dancers and it has been a real honor and education. 

The more we learned, the more we realized there was to learn.   As in all things oaxaqueño, there is so much depth and history.

And it has been so sweet to watch two of the principals grow up.  Juana Lisabeth Contreras Vincente as Malinche.

And Alani Ruiz Ruiz as Doña Marina.  They, as will we, will carry these memories for the rest of their lives.

We will be there tomorrow as they dance their final dance.

Blue skies....

Blue skies
Smiling at me
Nothing but blue skies
Do I see

La Virgen of Juquila

What a way to start the day!  At about 4 AM, the hills came alive with the sound of music, numerous bands, and cohetes, fireworks, as people celebrated the Virgin of Juquila.  It sounded like a war zone only with happy music.   Three hours later and it is all still happening, really an amazing few hours as the sounds come from all around me.  It is one of those times when living out in the country is magical.

La Virgen of Juquila is the unofficial patron saint of Oaxaca and many, many people make a pilgrimage to visit her site. 

The stories of the origins of the Virgin of Juquila are a bit convoluted, mysteriously clouded with the haze of time and myth. However, most accounts tell of a Dominican priest, Frey Juan Jordan, who brought the small figure with him from the Philippines. The exact date of their arrival is uncertain, but when he left in 1558 for another parish, he gave the figure to his young man servant who lived in the nearby town of Amialtepec. Word of her miracles spread and in 1630, a small shrine was built for her, affording all villagers a view. Three years later, the entire town of Amialtepec burned to the ground. From inside the inferno, they say, could be heard the wee voice of the tiny Virgin calling for help. While all around her fires blazed, destroying the entire town, the carved wooden figure survived, scorched a deep brown, the color of the Chatina people.

So good to be back...

I've returned and it feels so nice to be back here in the sun and warmth.... and that includes the people, too.  I ran over to Etla to get fruits and vegetables.  Wow, there is just no comparison in terms of freshness, quality and cost with El Norte.  So after getting quesillo, tomatoes, avocados, carrots, potatoes, chilies and some fresh fruit, I stopped at my favorite juice stand and got a huge glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.  Indescribable!  I felt immediately healthier.

Carrot juice anyone?

And the best part about returning?  I am dealing with a different type of bull.

Ahhhh......

Leaving/Arriving

In order to return, one must leave.  This is the way it is.  So I am outta here, leaving New England, back to Oaxaca.  All the pre-winter chores are done here and some minor repairs finished.  The house is prepped for my return in mid/late winter.  I enjoy the seasons no matter where I am so I am off, back into the dry season.

This house calls out to me, "How can I miss you, if you won't go away."  Funny, I heard that same phrase in Spanish just a few weeks ago.

Back to San Pablo to see how mi casa did in the couple of minor earthquakes while I was gone.  I prepped that house for this return and I hope it all works out.  Last time, I returned to a leaking pipe which drained all the water in the house and took several days to find and fix.  There is something every time.

I have to say, El Norte, the good ole U S of A, is one extremely weird place these days.  There are countless examples of things unraveling.  I am not sure what can be done.  And it ain't just here.  We appear to be in some weird cycle.  History repeating itself, only intensified by technology.

Even with all the troubles in Mexico, I have to say, the vibe is so much different, so much better there.  Sure, there are problems and polarization there too, but the overall atmosphere is nothing like it is here.  I mean, really... do you see what is going on here?  As they like to say, "The whole world is watching." and it ain't a pretty sight.