Another day, another fiesta

Even if it the slow season here, late August, there is still action almost every day. 

I happened upon this Fiesta de Verdad (Truth), a celebration of indigenous villages, with lots of things to buy, see and eat.  I was drawn by the sound of really good band and these dancers from Juxtlahuaca, famous for their wild dancing and incredible masks.

A wonderful performance.

Looks like something out of Pan's Labyrinth.

Hmmmm.... why do all the devils have blue eyes?

Once again, very young musicians right out in front.

I missed these musicas from Santa Maria Tlahuiltoltepec, the village where ninety percent of the people play musical instruments.... oh, they do embroidery, too.  One of my favorite places.... you can see why.

What the world needs now is...

Well, you know the answer to that.

Here, it is the opening of the school year, which means something very different in Oaxaca. 

After putting numerous strangleholds on the city, state and country, it appears that Seccion XXII has lost its mojo.  The governor basically fired everyone in the educational power structure and replaced them.

So, of course, the teachers are protesting... tell me something new... and there are soldiers and cops everywhere, many of whom are helping prepare for the academic year by painting and cleaning....

Oh, there are those nice helicopters still here from the pre-quelaguetza action.  Let's hope that the children of Oaxaca finally get a full school year with no stoppages or strikes... now, that would truly be a miracle... surviving the war and the virus of hate.

yes, surviving the war.... As a former teacher, the situation here always blows my mind.  Both sides have legit grievances, from my limited perspective, but it has been almost forty years of conflict.  It is getting old.  There are other problems to face... like how is Mexico gonna pay for the wall the The Donald is going to build and then pass the costs on to the Mexicans?

El Guapo

There ought to be a law....

For being so handsome.

Shots form the last desfile.

You've got the look...

I love the looks on these people's faces from the last guelaguetza desfile or parade.  One can see such happiness and pride.  If there is one thing oaxaqueños know how to do, it is to strut their stuff and have an exceedingly good time.... OK, that's two things, but they often overlap.

 This abuela's faces is every grandparent's face...

 Getting ready for the big event

 Striking the classic pose.  They learn how to face the camera at an early age.

"Hold on, hijo, we're almost ready.  Let me just hold up your pants."

 Yes, a little kid with a torito.  I wonder if it got lit and he got to dance with it. 

 My bet is that he did.  Gotta keep those traditions going.

Icons cont....

Frida is everywhere these days.  Maybe I should get one of these camisas...  Hmmm which one... so many to choose from......Hipster Frida?

Frida that does not look like Frida

Or Vogue Frida which is very in vogue, obviously

Uh, someone did not get the memo.. yes iconic, but....

Mmmm mmm good

Just look at these!  Beautiful, ready to eat while you shop pomegranate or grenadas...

Wednesday is market day in Etla.  I probably shouldn't even post these shots, but you might as well see what you are missing.  First, chile rellanos of the finest quality.

I have to buy from two different ladies so as not to hurt anyone's feeling... such as sacrifice;-)  One of the maestras de chile rellenos.

Just a week or so ago there was the feria de Tamale in the city and as good as the tamales were there, nothing compares to Doña Melisa's. 

Not only are they really tasty, but they are also nice and fat as well.  I am so spoiled.  She has six or eight different kinds and makes hundreds of them each week.

Then why not be tempted by something nice and sweet and crunchy?

Beauty abounds.

Hungry yet?

Icons

It's tough out there for an icon.   I say this as we watch some of the iconic figures from the last century lose a bit of their luster.. actually, all of it.  Cosby comes to mind....  But think about the person behind the image.  Here's Frida who is on a one name recognition basis almost globally.  Her house is a mecca.  Her writings best-sellers.  Her art has gone as viral as art can go.  And then there is the film, the fashion, the whole life story.  There's a woman in Ocotlan who looks almost exactly like Frida who runs a restaurant and is one of the most photographed people there.  She herself has become iconic.  Crazy.

I guess my thoughts try to go back to the real person, who in many respects was just like us.  They ate, the slept, they fell in love, they felt pain and loss...  Oh sure, they may have had something extra, a spark, but they were real before they became icons.  Because my life has been filled by knowing so many remarkable people, some of whom are very much little mini-icons, I always think of Frida, the person, whenever I see her face.... which is pretty much every single day.  Really!

And icons live on and on.... right Boop?  In traditional Oaxacan garb.

Marmota!

What is that thing and why are they dancing with it?  It's a marmota!

Something one sees in almost every Oaxacan celebration is the marmota, the globe on a stick that comes in all sizes from small to huge.  I watched them assemble this one just before the last guelaguetza desfile.  Like all things Oaxacan, its assembly is an art.  It slowly goes from individual pieces.

First in the top slot.

Then the bottom slot.

Rinse and repeat. Tie them all together.

I wasn't the only one watching.

Then the outer covering.

And done.... on to the next one.

Dancing, let alone walking, with one of these is an art. 

As in all things here, they start really young.  I, much to the amusement of many people in Tlacolula, tried  to balance this one at last years calenda.

It weighed eighty kilos.  I should have started with the little boys size.  The old guys around made it look easy and as I say, they laughed and laughed and laughed.

I've just seen a face

I am just going all the shots from the guelaguetza's second desfile... Ay! There are so many, really too many.  So rather than diminish the beauty of this striking woman by adding more...

 Sometimes one can see and imagine all the culture, history and pride in a single face.

You've got the look...

One of the great things here is that normal life continues during all the craziness and festivities.  I saw weddings, confirmations and funerals occurring during any and all of the guelaguetza activities.  The funeral procession, in fact, slowly made its way down one of the main streets just before the desfile began.  And just off to the side of the desfile, at its very height, complete madness and huge crowds, this young lady's quinceanera celebration caught my eye.  Then, when looking at the shot, in addition to noting how lovely the 15 year old looks, I love the young man's pose.

It's like a young Jean-Paul Belmondo look.... or maybe not.

Befores and after

Thanks to a faithful reader in the Great State of Maine for kicking me in the butt and encouraging me to rejoin the real world.  I have been recovering from all the festivities and working outside.  I recently found these shots from the last two years.  First, this shot from November of 2013.  This was after smoothing the whole lot out, moving lots of dirt around and moving even more rocks around.  I did the Sisyphus thing for a while.

Then this shot from October 1, 2014

And finally, ten months later, this one from the end of June.

Things have grown even more since then... I mean, it has been a whole month.