Oaxacan Restoration - Yanhuitlan and Teposcolula

No, this isn't about the roads and streets, I will spare you that. However, it is truly impressive to watch the restoration work that seems to be a constant here. Incredible progress has been made and the results are beautiful. Most of the churches I pass by have a fresh look to them with stonework replaced and the interiors cleaned and restored. I will post shots of some of the city's churches, but wanted to start with these two from the mixteca alta, about an hour north of the city in Yanhuitlan and Teposcolula.For earlier posts and more of the story check here and here.I have been visiting this fascinating area for a few years. I remember sneaking into the church in Yanhuitlan a couple of years ago. It was closed to the public and was dark, dusty and full of birds. Now, look at it.The work is really remarkable. The church is huge with very high ceilings. The scaffolding looks to be at least 25 meters high as workers restore the painting over the main altar. Plaster is painstakingly re-gilded. The work is scheduled to be completed in July. Work going on inside and out.Yanhuitlan has such an interesting history. When the Spanish arrived in the early XVI century, there were 100,00 mixtecas living there. Now, the village has less than 800 inhabitants and the church is not really used. It does have this amazing stone retablo.So Yanhuitlan is basically unused, quiet and a bit sad.
Not so in Teposcolula, where the church is also under restoration. Started at roughly the same time as Yanhuitlan (16th cent.) this church is always alive and in use. There is restoration work both inside and out proceeding at a fast clip with lots of workers. The finished organ loft. Again, this is a very large structure. The columns are probably 10 to 15 meters tall. The stonework is remarkable, all cut and fashioned on site.The baptismal font in a side chamber.Recently cleaned and restored retablo.Plus, lot at Teposcolula's Municipal center. Does your city hall look so fine?Well worth the visit. Almost no one goes to either place. Put it on your list.

Shot Of the Day (one of them)

I am just going over a week or two of photos after visiting many villages, markets, churches and archaeological sites as I was taking folks on day trips. Went to Tlacolula a couple of times and the market there is one of the best no matter if it Sunday, market day, or not.I left this shot large if you click on it, because it has so much information, from the woman's face, her outfit, the full range of colors, the wonderful mezcal sign, right down to the electrical meters incorporated into the painting.

I'm Back! He vuelto

Back from a week of acting as tour guide.
I will post some of the photos I shot this past week, some really nice stuff.
Perfect timing.

From Bad Astronomy, one of my favorite blogs.

Fakequinox

Today, March 20, at 17:32 GMT (1:32 p.m. EST) — after three months of crawling northward — the center of the Sun will lie on the celestial equator, heralding the moment of the vernal equinox.

Or, more understandably, if somewhat less correctly, spring will arrive.

Regional Museum of Oaxaca

The museum located in the Santo Domingo complex is Oaxaca's largest and the recent renovations and additions have left the place in absolutely spectacular condition. In fact, not only the museum is at its peak, but also the church and the botanical gardens. To do it right, one really needs to take a few days to drink it all in. I have been to the museum many times and always find myself taking the same shots which demand to be taken. I also always see something new, like this statue of Santa Lucia. Look at what she is holding in her left hand.

The Christian tradition states that when the guards came to take her away they found her so filled with the Holy Spirit that she was as stiff and heavy as a mountain; they could not move her even when they hitched her to a team of oxen. Even after implanting a dagger through her throat she prophesied against her persecutor. As a final torture, her eyes were gouged out. She was miraculously still able to see without her eyes. In paintings St. Lucy is frequently shown holding her eyes on a golden plate.

The whole story can be found here.

Here is the iconic piece from Tomb 7 at Monte Alban. Copies of it can be found in many of the jewelry stores.

Shot Of the Day

Apropos to International Women's Day, a shot (from the hip) from the market in Tlacolula.

Progess in the streets

No, not protests in the streets, but progress. I have written quite a bit about the construction in the city and the hardships it creates for getting around and for business, however, they are busting to get it done.

For some of the streets, after digging them up and replacing pipes and conduits, they use a pretty interesting technique. First they pour concrete, then get the bubbles out and smooth it. Then they dye and imprint a pattern on it using rubber molds that they push down into the wet cement. Then they use 2x4's to clean up the lines and voila, the finished product. It is one arduous process and these guys work hard. No OSHA here and the dust and heat are brutal, but in general, they always seem like they are having a decent time.

Of course, ain't nothing like the real thing.

International Women's Day!

Check out some of the remarkable work my friend, Sonya Melescu, is doing in the Congo. Women for Women is a great organization and one that deserves much support and admiration.

Hard to believe, but last night, the first woman to win Best Director, Kathryn Bigelow for The Hurt Locker. Haven't seen the movie and didn't see the Oscars.

Street Art

Always something new.

Trout in the mountains

It has been a busy week, laying bricks in the back garden, helping unload boxes of books for Amate and lots of running around. I did want to make mention of something we did last weekend, a bike ride in the mountains from Cuajimoloyas north to, once again, eat the wonderful food of Senora Lucia at her restaurant with adjoining trout pond. It seems we have been going there for years, but this was first for me on a bike. I wrote about the wonderful hongos she cooked for us last July.

We rented bikes and headed off through the bright sun and crisp air. Cuajimoloyas is way up there. It has the feel of a Swiss alpine village, except for all the agave and zapotecs. The road follows a ridge and is mostly downhill. Notice I said "mostly" and also what every biker knows, what goes down is all uphill on the way back.

The restaurant was maybe 10k and it was an easy ride through the mountains, surrounded by pines with the wind whistling though my hair. We were hungry before we left and the ride just added to it. It was time to eat.

Senora Lucia worked her magic with some freshly caught trout, which she stuffed with onions, chiles, tomato, herbs and quesillo, wrapped in tinfoil and cooked on her her hge wood-fired comal. Here she is making a special salsa made with nuts and chiles. She was helped by the ever-smiling Rosaleria. The food was so good and we were so hungry I forgot to take a picture of the finished product. It looked as good as it tasted.

After the meal it was time to head back. It has been a while since I had been on a bike and my butt was sore and the bikes were not in the best of shape, but I made it. I have to admit to walking up some of the longer uphill stretches. High altitude really does a number on your lungs if you are not used to it. Oaxaca is plenty high, but this was higher and baby, it hurt. You can see it in my face as I crossed the finish line. Now that I have recovered, it took a day, I am ready for the whole thing again.

Leading the way

In David Lida's book, "First Stop in the New World" he maintains that Mexico City, one of the most diverse and cosmopolitan cities in the world, will lead other cities into the future by how it deals with issues and problems. As it goes, the rest of the world will follow.

So this is interesting, no?

Today, this sprawling megalopolis will catapult to the front lines of gay rights in Latin America, when a city law legalizing same-sex marriage and adoption goes into effect.....

Mexico allows the federal district of Mexico City to pass its own laws, and the metropolis of more than 20 million people has become a major battleground in the culture wars playing out across the Americas.

In recent years, the city’s Legislative Assembly has recognized civil unions and no-fault divorce, legalized abortion in the first trimester, and given terminally ill patients the right to refuse treatment.

full story

More like a oaxaqueño everyday...

So I had in my mind that I would take my car in to make an appointment to have it checked. If I had a phone I could have called, but not a big deal to drive over to car dealers auto mile near Plaza del Valle. It is about 20k, but by now I know how to avoid the traffic snags and construction. As I got close, about 1k, the other side of the street was closed by a massive march.

Drivers did what they normally do, jumped the median and started driving whatever way they could. So we were facing cars coming head on, but quite smoothly, everyone adjusted.

I got to the dealer and they said, "Fine, let's do it now. It'll be ready at 6." I was used to dealers saying bring it in in a couple of weeks. I jumped at the chance to get it over with.

So I found myself with seven hours to kill. No biggie. And that, my friends, is a big change in attitude. Waiting seven hours seemed short.

I figured I would go to a movie and walked between the two cineplexes to see what was playing and when. I thought maybe a couple of flicks, but then saw that "Avatar" was playing at 2PM and there is an easy 3 hours.

I walked the malls and killed a couple hours, bang, bang. Made my way to the theater to discover I was the only one there. Imagine that - alone in a big beautiful room with great sound and picture, watching "Avatar" in 3D. Very cool. The usher laughed with me as I turned in my glasses. His work was done. No clean up. I hadn't even gotten popcorn.

Back to the dealer, killed another hour or so and the car was done, clean and tweaked. Not too expensive, either compared to the States, but dealers are always higher.

At least it was done and I was ready to head home.... however, the march had turned out to be marches and most major roads were blocked. So I, along with everyone else in rush hour traffic went into "getting around the blockades" mode. Obviously, it is total chaos and can be frustrating, but it is just a part of normal life here, so really it is no big deal. I know my way through the city now and got through the mess pretty easily.

You have to remember that centro has narrow streets and lots of buses and taxis. Knowing who to follow and when is key. Never argue with a bus. They have total right of way simply because they are crazy.

So between the waiting and the driving madness, I think I am getting used to this place and doin' OK.

Just think about this. People actually protest here. Imagine if thousands of people shut down the roads surrounding a major US city. Maybe the politicians would wake up.... then again, no chance of that happening.

I mean, the largest march here was in support of the PRI candidate for governor. Nothing like pissing off thousands of voters by blocking traffic for ten hours. There's an effective political strategy. Kinda like banksters whining about their million dollar bonuses or senators cutting off unemployment and Medicare payments. Brilliant. Where do I vote? How many times can I do it?

El Chato - Salon d'la Fama

"Atendido su amigo "El Chato" is what it says over the door to the Salon d'la Fama, The Hall of Fame, a cantina on Calle Porfirio Diaz, where we stopped by for a late morning visit. We were greeted by El Chato and as we sipped our mezcal and beer, ate some wonderful botanas, we were treated to great conversations with the other patrons. One was an author, who had written about mezcal. Another was a renown architect who had been involved in many of the major restorations of some of Oaxaca's finest sites, including the church at Ocatlan. The ambiance was perfect, a wonderful way to sit back and drink in and engage with people. Of course, the real treasure is El Chato. Here is the photo from over the bar of him in his earlier days at La Fama. I love the look of this place and some of the old photos. Those of you have known me for years will recall I had a photo of this cantina on one of my earlier CD's, "World in My Pocket." The outside was a gorgeous blue at that point. Now it is this light nondescript tan, but the inside is unchanged. As I say, perfect.

If you want to read a great piece on cantina culture in Mexico, read David Lida's chapter in"First Stop in the New World." It is not what you think it is. So don't fear for my innocence. Damn, where did I put that halo?

El Maiz

Nothing get folks more up in arms than messing with corn. Transgenic or corporate produced seeds are thought to be the devil here. Remember, Oaxaca is the birthplace of corn or so many believe. There used to be many hundreds of varieties here, some say thousands, so it is a battle to retain and keep the original native strains alive and prospering. Monsanto is not popular here.
Some street art from the old neighborhood Jalatlaco on the house of a corn activist.

Ahhh....

WYSIWYG.... no retouching, no enhancements, just reality.

Whaddya kno?

Remember when I said that the piano would change things? Well, I gave my first formal lesson today upstairs in my new studio. The kid probably didn't know what hit him, getting the normal first lesson, which gets them through first year of college theory in about an hour. My former students are probably laughing remembering it. We'll have to see where it goes from here. What's next, a gig?
No, it wasn't this guy in the zocalo. I just liked his guitar and asked if I could snap him. You know, he coulda used a lesson or two, he couldn't play a lick. but don't tell him.

More and more

After driving around the city yesterday or trying to, more and more I am convinced that the city planners are insane. That, however, would be too kind. I really think it is the lame duck government giving the city the finger one last time, only it will last months. Let's face it, the governor is... well, I am a guest here. His record speaks for itself.

I know there are hundreds or maybe thousands of people working hard to fix the streets and water/sewer lines. I am glad they have jobs. But you cannot get around the city. It was hard enough before, but so many streets are closed off, I don't know how businesses are surviving. I have the patience of a saint after so many years of commuting in Boston. I have a great stereo so I am always happy, but it almost, almost, got to me yesterday.

I did think it was interesting that there were cops directing traffic everywhere, but I think it was because of other action in the city. There was a big event in the stadium above the city and tons of police there. Not that any of the traffic management helped much. I mean, whaddya gonna do if all the streets are closed?

The good news? I get to do it again today. Maybe a different route? Like everyone else is not thinking that, too. As I said, whaddya gonna do if all the streets are closed?

Suspect in reporter's death freed

The big news of the day concerns the Brad Will case of 2006. There are many local stories about it. Here's one.

From The Canadian Press

OAXACA, Mexico — The lone suspect in the killing of an independent U.S. journalist during protests against the Oaxaca state government three years ago was let out of prison Thursday for lack of evidence.

Juan Manuel Martinez, who had been one of the protesters seeking the ouster of the governor, called himself a political prisoner and said the 16 months he spent in jail were the worst "torture of my life."

His lawyer, Alba Cruz, had said Wednesday that a Mexican federal court cleared Martinez and ordered his release.

Many human rights groups contend Martinez was wrongly charged with the slaying of Bradley Will, 36, of New York.

Will was shot in October 2006 as he videotaped a clash between protesters and government supporters in the southern state. He was covering the conflict for Indymedia.org.

Martinez was charged with homicide. Two others were charged with covering up the crime, but were later released. All three are supporters of the radical movement known as the People's Assembly of Oaxaca, or APPO, which seized control of Oaxaca city for almost five months pushing for the removal of Gov. Ulises Ruiz.

The fight started as a teachers strike and ballooned into a broader movement to demand Ruiz's resignation over allegations he rigged his election victory.

Critics said prosecutors ignored evidence that implicated Ruiz's supporters. Prosecutors have failed to give specifics about the ballistics evidence or explain why Martinez would have shot Will, who supported the protest movement.

"I'm happy to have gained my freedom and that government's injustice against me and my family has ended," Martinez said after he and other APPO members marched from the prison to the main square in Oaxaca city. "What happened to me is what happens to all political prisoners."

Will's family also has criticized the investigation into the journalist's slaying and say they believe pro-government forces were responsible.

Amnesty International urged Mexican authorities to continue looking for Will's killer.

Martinez's release was long overdue, said Kerrie Howard, director of the London-based Amnesty's Americans program. "Mexican authorities used Juan Manuel as a scapegoat to demonstrate progress in the death of Brad Will."

or AP's coverage - full story

Good to be back

After a day or two of recovery and some fantastic mole negro at our favorite local restaurant in Etla, I am back. So life returns to some semblance of normal as I run around and take care of errands. I had a ceiling light fixure crumble in my hands as soon as I turned on the light upon my return. Fortunately, I have walked the street enough (no, not that kind of street walking) so I knew exactly where to get a replacement. It is stuff like that, knowing where things are or how to get things done, that tells me I am starting to get a grip on life here. It was nice to see Oaxaca's most photographed street musician walking by Santo Domingo as I headed into town. "Welcome back, Chris."

New graffiti appeared in several different sections of the city.
What's it mean? I will look into it. Still, deep and beautiful, nice on the different backgrounds

Walk like an Egyptian...

More like shop like a Mexican. I am just back from a short visit to El Norte, mostly to check on my house, get a taste of winter in New England and of course, pick up stuff I can't get here. I remember years ago looking at how laden returning passengers were and wondering, "What's with that?" Now I know. I was a sight.

I took one empty suitcase up with me and ordered a large duffel bag that awaited me. So what did I fill them with?

A partial list: Tibetan singing bowl and Tibetan incense, cheddar cheese, Chinese kitchen knife, good soy sauce, GPS unit (oops, no satellite coverage here) electric toothbrush, jeweler's screwdrivers, an Airport Extreme wireless, deodorant, contact lens cleaner, maple syrup, (for friends), small electronics, clothes, sneaks, seeds, two backup cameras (Canon Powershots)..... OK you get the point, right. I got a lotta stuff.

Most importantly, I got a decent digital piano and a road case for it. Weight was an important factor. I have a great instrument in Newton, but with its case, it weighs a ton. So as i picked one out this time, the first thing I did was pick it up, which looked pretty funny. Then I went for touch and sound.

So you can see I was pretty laden, but wheeee.... I got stuff!

Just rediscovering the joys of playing is indescribable. I played everyday for most of my life and it has been a few years since i could do that. The rust is there, but minimal. The exhilaration brushes it off. Who knows, but there could be gigs in the near future. Already got interest in prospective students and lessons.

One of the best things I did up there came in the smallest package. Uploaded tons of movies and music to the computer and backed it up to a portable hard drive.

I am already starting on a list for my next trip in the spring.

When - Cuando?

The men in the US have done enough damage. It's time, doncha think? No, not that one.
One like this.from the Latin American Herald Tribune:

Laura Chinchilla Elected Costa Rica’s First Woman President

Laura Chinchilla becomes Costa Rica’s first woman president after getting almost 47% of the vote, while vowing to open a dialogue with all sectors of society and improve the quality of health care, education and security.

Full story

Who is Al Fresco?

Not my cousin Al Fresco, but alfresco meaning in the open air.I love the marimba players at this popular stand and then following the cat(erpillar).Reading outside the museum.

Lluvia - Rain

We have had some very nice rain the last few days. Last night I heard something and couldn't figure out what it was - the sound of rain. It is a rarity at this time of year and everyone is talkin' about it. Every drop is a blessing. One goes for months without feeling a drop, so it is a little bit of religion falling from the skies.
The smell of gardenias and jasmine fills the backyard. The plants are lovin' it.

Hiding away in Escondido

To quote the great Max Bialyistock, (Zero Mostel, please) "That's it, baby, when you've got it, flaunt it, flaunt it!"

So after braving massive street marches, a long sinuous seven hour moonlit drive through the mountains, we found ourselves in Puerto Escondido. Ahhhhhhhhhhhh.

The sun, the sand, the warmth, the waves, the seafood, the mango empanadas.... I dare not go on for fear of being too cruel. Iconic Puerto EscondidoOther than to say, on the way back we picked up guanabanas and several kinds of bananas fresh off the tree and some wonderful honey. The honey changes every two months depending on what is flowering everything from mango to coffee.