La Virgen of Juquila

It all makes sense now, as once again, Henry Wangeman of Amate Books came through with the answer to what all the flowers and fireworks are about. Today is the day oaxaqueños celebrate La Virgen of Juquila, the unofficial patron saint of Oaxaca.
Hers is an interesting story:

The stories of the origins of the Virgin of Juquila are a bit convoluted, mysteriously clouded with the haze of time and myth. However, most accounts tell of a Dominican priest, Frey Juan Jordan, who brought the small figure with him from the Philippines. The exact date of their arrival is uncertain, but when he left in 1558 for another parish, he gave the figure to his young man servant who lived in the nearby town of Amialtepec. Word of her miracles spread and in 1630, a small shrine was built for her, affording all villagers a view. Three years later, the entire town of Amialtepec burned to the ground. From inside the inferno, they say, could be heard the wee voice of the tiny Virgin calling for help. While all around her fires blazed, destroying the entire town, the carved wooden figure survived, scorched a deep brown, the color of the Chatina people.

The state of the 4th estate

I am sitting here on a beautiful morning with the sun pouring over the mountains. There are more fire crackers than normal. Why? Is today something special? Coltrane is on the stereo blowing "Giants Steps." Now, there is a story, but really....

Sometimes one has to wonder what is going on in El Norte. I always like to transpose the problems the US faces onto a different country, say like, Russia, Honduras or France. Of course the media help spin how we might view the situation in each of those countries. Health care in France? Waging war by Russia? The democratic process in Honduras?

So what is the press fixated on? Global warming? Afghanistan? Unemployment? No, of course not. It is Tiger and Desiree.

If you don't know the Daily Howler by Bob Somerby or Digby's Hullabaloo, please check them out. Somerby is an unrelenting critic of the media and castigates both the right and left equally. Digby just calls them as she sees them. I enjoy reading both.

So here's what Somerby said today.

WHAT DIGBY SAID: Especially after Sunday’s New York Times, we’ll go with what Digby said last week about the Salahi blather:

DIGBY (12/2/09): The other day I mentioned that the Villagers were ginning up a scandal over this party crasher story that would eventually require the resignation of someone in the White House. It's not about security. They really can't be bothered with such trivia. But God help anyone who presumes to ignore the approved social pecking order. One simply does not presume to attend events which are confined to Very Important Villagers and someone must be sacrificed on the altar of Sally Quinn lest the entire social order be threatened.

“The Obama White House is finding out just how sharp their claws can be,” Digby wrote. That was before Maureen Dowd’s broken-souled Sunday column. To our ear, Dowd’s column suggests that a larger problem may be brewing than the one Digby foresaw.

Before we look at Dowd’s sorry piece—the Times should be ashamed for printing such drivel—let’s consider what a slightly more rational world would be like.

It is well worth the read. He even quotes Bob Zimmerman, I mean Dylan. He says it better than I could. So does Digby.

Because it's there

Easily one of the most photographed sites in Oaxaca, Santo Domingo draws the eye like a magnet. Construction for this magnificent baroque structure was begun in 1572 and completed over the next 200 years. A full restoration was undertaken in 1993 and completed six years later, but obviously it continues. This is from August and the finished project from just a few days ago.I never fail to be amazed by the amount of gold leaf and the opulence of the building. When one realizes that Mexico was divided up by three factions, the Dominicans, the Franciscans and the Assisians, one can see that Santo Domingo was at the heart of the Dominicans power base. During revolutionary times, the mid-19th century until almost 1940, it was turned over to the military. When I started coming here, the area that is now a well-established botanical garden was still filled with military. I remember looking out of the museums windows and watching them exercise their horses.

And of course there is always that late afternoon light.

Need these?

Every day, on many of the streets on which visitors stroll, you can see all sorts of crafts offered for sale. I don't think many women ever leave without out picking out several of these beautiful embroidered dresses or smocks.

Uh, there just happened to be a crane available for this shot, probably left over from the Oaxacan version of Chinatown. Actually, I was hanging over a balcony.

Peter Kuper - Diario de Oaxaca

Last evening, at Amate Books, there was a fascinating talk and presentation to a packed room by Peter Kuper about his recent book Diario de Oaxaca. You may know some of his work as he has been widely published by the NYT and the various news magazines, but perhaps most famously as the artist who continues Spy vs. Spy in Mad Magazine.You can see some of his work from Diario here. He is an engaging speaker and he pulled no punches when describing the tumultuous times in Oaxaca in 2006. But it was his drawings that were even more captivating. He captured the essence and flavor of Oaxaca, its history, culture, and people through a most tragic and difficult time.

It was an honor to hear him and to see his work, some of which is available for purchase at Amate. Kudos to Henry Wangeman for arranging the evening.

El coche

It has been an interesting few days as the car search culminated. It was a time to be uptight. It was a time to pray before altars on trucks.
Actually, this one was leading a long line of bicyclists.

One cultural difference is the ability of mexicanos to patiently wait and to go through the bureaucratic hoops that are just a part of life here. I pride myself in my patience, but baby, this was pushing it. I will have to do better. I promise I will never say anything bad about the DMV's in the States again...ever.

On Friday, I waited eight hours for the car to show up. The seller, the money (me) and the fixer all had to be in the same room at the same time - plus Henry and Rosa, who acted as translators and cheerleaders. Eventually, the deal went down. Then it was on to getting the plates. I accompanied Antonio, the fixer, as we jumped through those hoops. It would have been difficult to do without him. He knew the right people and a little under-the-table money helped grease the skids. So after four hours, ten different people, more paperwork than should be allowed, I had plates. Then a quick lunch and a new stereo with an ipod connection and I was cookin'.

So what did I get?I hope it is not too flashy for the neighborhood.
Actually, I got a Jetta.

Just curious

La curiosidad mató al gato - Curiosity killed the cat.

Now that Lonely Planet has put Oaxaca back on it's top ten list, I am just curious how people elsewhere view Mexico. So many times, we are the victims of the press or of stereotypes and it is hard to cut through all the inaccuracies.

So how is it with you and Mexico?

As I have said before, watching the US from the outside is unnerving. Unemployment, the sagging dollar, the polarized political scene, the gross ineptitude of those running the institutions - maybe it isn't ineptitude, but merely unfettered greed and to top it off, the terrible job that the media is doing in covering all of the above... well, it don't look good, but maybe that is just me. Am I in a bubble here? I follow lots of blogs and news sources, but maybe I am in an echo chamber, just hearing the same stuff over and over again.

So what is the word on Mexico that makes it into your bubble?

For those of us here, it is quiet and we are wondering when people are going to come and visit. Sure, there are problems, but where aren't there problems? Oaxaca continues to offer so much, culture, art, history, crafts, eco-tourism, food, beaches, mountains, its a long list.

What are you hearing about Mexico?

We're back!

Time for a visit!! Full story:

Lonely Planet is one of the world's leading travel media companies. Drawing on the knowledge, passion and miles traveled of Lonely Planet's global team of staff and authors, Lonely Planet's Best in Travel 2010 showcases a year's worth of inspiration to take travelers out of the ordinary and into some unforgettable experiences.

Oaxaca provides travelers with a variety of activities, from surfing the legendary ‘Mexican pipeline' at one of the world's great surf beaches Playa Zicatela, sweating it out in a temazcal, a pre-Columbian herbal sauna in Puerto Escondido or surveying the vast valley of Oaxaca from atop the ancient Zapotec ruins of Monte Albán.

"It is an honor for Mexico to be recognized once again, by Lonely Planet as one of the Top 10 Regions in the world. Oaxaca is one of Mexico's richest cultural regions, and we are proud that visitors around the world feel the same," said Oscar Fitch, CEO of the Mexico Tourism Board.

Market Day

More and more, I appreciate shopping at my local market in Etla on Wednesdays. The village is transformed and its normally quiet main drag is packed with vendors and shoppers. I am starting to do a better job of "seeing," meaning, I am not in sensory overload anymore. This all seems normal. I know I stick out like a sore thumb amongst these people, but at least I am a regular to some of them. Fresh garlic? Sweet fresh bananas. The produce varies from week to week depending on what is in season, but there are always great deals at good prices for all manner of fruits and vegetables.Good looking and great tasting turkeys and chickens. Doesn't get any fresher than that.Fresh fruit snacks.I like this shot with the father, in his hip pink shirt, a piecing no less, holding his son in his "Cars" outfit, while Christ overlooks the tomatoes.Fresh chiles and a winsome look.

Street Scenes

These two street musicians are probably two of Oaxaca's most photographed people. I have shots of them going back years. Many tourists stop and snap them and then deposit a peso in each of the cans. The only problem is that they never tune up together which always makes the music sound... well, out of tune. Maybe that is just the conservatory-trained musician in me, you know, a jerk. I think it was Miles who said, "Only college boys play in tune."

Mil palabras

Tianguis

Today we went to the nearby tianguis looking for a car to buy. Tianguis are common throughout Mexico, set up in a specific place on a specific day each week. There are all sorts of these markets, ranging from the market days in the villages to huge ones in the DF that sell one type of item, like automotive. In today's case, it was the one for cars in Santa Rosa. The cars for sale are lined up on both sides of the road and people just walk up and down scoping out the wheels. There are cars in all shapes and sizes and all kinds of condition. I should have taken pictures, but I was in full shopping mode and could only contemplate one thing at a time. I did not buy, but I came close. I need another week of research and thought about what I really need. That beamer looked nice, but how will it do in the villages and on all those topes? A tricked out VW bug? An '84 Ford pickup? Any suggestions?
Oh, why the picture? You figure it out.

The story continues...

From the Latin American Herald Tribune - full story:

OAXACA, Mexico – A Mexican federal judge ordered the release of a man arrested last year for the October 2006 killing of U.S. independent journalist Brad Will in the southern state of Oaxaca.

Magistrate Javier Leonel Santiago Martinez described the evidence submitted by federal prosecutors against Juan Manuel Martinez Moreno as “false” and “fabricated,” echoing criticism of the indictment by Will’s family and organizations such as Amnesty International.

Martinez Moreno is a member of the Popular Assembly of the People of Oaxaca, or APPO, the grassroots coalition behind a months-long 2006 uprising against the state’s authoritarian governor, Ulises Ruiz.

Will was gunned down on Oct. 27, 2006, while covering the events in Oaxaca for the indymedia collective.

Transborder Migration Tool

Here is an interesting use of technology.

We looked at the Motorola i455 cell phone, which is under $30, available even cheaper on eBay, and includes a free GPS applet. We were able to crack it and create a simple compasslike navigation system. We were also able to add other information, like where to find water left by the Border Angels, where to find Quaker help centers that will wrap your feet, how far you are from the highway--things to make the application really benefit individuals who are crossing the border.

Read some of the comments. Full story at Boingboing.

The beginning/end of the cycle

It seems as if the dry season has arrived right on schedule. The nights are cold and clear. Living in an adobe house, once again, shows its advantages, cool when its hot, warm when its cold. Looking out across this corn field just outside of Teotitlan del Valle and to the mountains brought back many memories. The corn fields in my life. One season ends, another begins.Beautiful use of corn in this altar at Jacobo and Maria Anegeles' place in San Martin Tilcajete.

IconiGraffiti

Iconic and graffiti. These are shots from the other day. Here in Oaxaca, the graffiti comes and goes, so one has to shoot it while its hot. So these are all iconic images of Oaxaca, the knife-sharpener, the blind accordianist, the shoe shine boy, the man with the triangle, who you can hear from blocks away. I think he sells limonada. Also the hurdy gurdy man is there, but is already started to be covered up. I should add that the average hurdy gurdy man does not normally have an electric meter coming out of his back. He is the ever-ready bunny version, I guess.

Esperanza - Hope

I loved seeing this poster plastered all over the place. Keep hope alive!

Keep jumping those hurdles, baby.

San Antonino

Imagine a sea of flowers. From the right angles, that how the cemetery at San Antonino appears. I had the pleasure of going there three times in the last week. I spent a rainy afternoon there by myself just contemplating all the right things. On this last trip, a day after el concurso, we had the place to ourselves aside from one or two families. There were also a couple of guys there snagging the best flowers for seeds for next year.
I feel very blessed to be able to go to this amazing place. It seems like no other I have seen. On top of the beauty, the people are always so friendly, engaging in conversations so freely and openly.
The graves are decorated in so many different ways. The uses of flowers and plant material rivals anything I have seen in all the flowers shows I have gone to in my life.