A year of mayordomo

Yesterday, I was invited to Casa Cruz in Teotitlan del Valle, the home of Fidel and Maria Luisa Cruz as they ended their year long commitment as mayordomos to the Virgin of Guadalupe.  It is a huge undertaking with many aspects and responsibilities, both religious and social.  Zapotec culture is complex and I don't know nearly enough to talk about it other than to say it was an honor to be there.

Last month all of the action was at Casa Cruz, but this time it was across the road at the house of the other mayordomo, Bulmaro Perez Mendoza.  However, I spent most of the afternoon at Casa Cruz where things were low-key, mostly eating, drinking, talking and helping the girls/young women get ready for the convite, the procession into the village.

Fidel is a master of natural dyes, one of the most knowledgeable in the village. 

And Maria Luisa is a Mendoza sister, famous around the world for their cooking.  She was so busy, she was in a blur.

Here's Abigail telling me to get it together and sit down with some tejate, which I got from one of her sisters.

 Which I gladly did.

The meal was caldo de oregano, a beef broth with chucks of meat.  No utensils, just tlayudas with which to eat it.  I've gotten used to eating this way and it was very tasty.

It is always so much fun taking photos of the convite participants getting ready. 

 It is so easy to get classic shots.

And what's a convite without Beatriz Ruiz?  It turns out they are cousins..

Each blouse is unique and beautiful

 Such a gorgeous look

 These two were about to head out for the long procession to the church.

Lots of these young ladies I've watched grown up and I look forward watching these two.

And of course, the danzantes were there.  We are watching them mature, too.  One more year to go for them.

And off they went.

 

Of course, the celebration continues for two more days..... How do they do it?

Let's go climb a tree...

Ahhhh... the sun is out today and it's finally warm.  So let's get out and enjoy the day.

Hide and seek? No peeking!

Baby, it's cold outside... and inside, too

People think that Mexico is always nice and warm.  Well, OK, so it ain't Pittsburgh, where it is currently 24 F (-4C), but it is pretty damn cold here and people bundle up almost like they're in Pittsburgh.

There has been snow and frost nearby and sadly, two people died of hypothermia.  The thing is that there's no such thing as central heat here and cement houses stay cold with all that mass.  Yesterday, the sun warmed things up, but today it's cloudy and in the 50's at noon.

People rely on space heaters or by wearing layers.  I currently have on a T shirt, a shirt, a sweater and a jacket... in the house.  Outside, it is serious coat weather, but one can still look cool.

Stay frosty, amig@s.

The cocks crow, but why at 2:30 AM?

I love the colors on these guys, but I can't figure out why they consistently crow in the wee hours of the morning.  Every. Single. Night.

It doesn't last long, but is surprisingly loud.  Unlike the hens, who merely cluck.

Their early morning activities have a much more positive result.

Fill in the blank....

A Hundred Years of the Whattheheckdoesthatsay??

Here you go. Do it yourself graffiti.... I guess for me, I might say a hundred years of 2017, because it sure seemed to be that long at times... is it over yet?

Bull!

I don't know if the blonde hairdo on this bull is natural or someone's not to subtle joke, but it's real.  I saw him on my afternoon constitutional.  If it ain't a Trump do... well, what can I say?  That what it is to me.  And I must add, as a former Yankee prep school teacher where decorum was mandatory, I'm embarrassed that the President of the United States would use the language he used to refer to countries like Mexico, the country I know, respect and love. Bull!

El Dia del los Reyes in Tres Reyes Etla

The Three Kings?  I saw hide nor hair of them, but if you read my previous post, well, they were with me anyway.  Once again, my timing was impeccable as I made my annual visit to Tres Reyes Etla for Tres Reyes, I arrived during mass.  For some reason it was outside this year, which I found to be strange. 

 I won't speculate as to why and the outdoor setting was very nice.  No sign of los Rayos, but what a beautiful celebration anyway.

A nice moment from one of the singers. "Take the Risk Now" with the "Beach Bum" in the back.

Casa Colibri had better luck with Los Reyes.  Check out her post.

Three Kings? That's me

You will recall that I had gifts of mandiles or aprons for all of the ladies who take such good care of me at the market in Etla.  Well, today was the day and I had a plan.  They were all in gift bags and I arranged them in order of delivery by where they are in the market.  I think it took less than a minute or two and I got some wonderful surprised smiles in return.  As I made my escape, I saw a few of them already had them on.  I went back to the car to grab a camera..... alas, the lady who sells me chicken had already changed back to a better one for chopping up chickens, but the juice lady radiated.

QOTD - Quote of the day

"I'm, like, smart....."

Buñuelos - A Oaxacan tradition

Buñuelos are large fried sweet dough, served sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and they can be found everywhere during the holiday season.

They are served with hot chocolate or miel de piloncillo, a syrup made with piloncillo, Mexico's unrefined brown sugar.

After finishing the tasty treat, part of the tradition is to throw the ceramic dish over one's head for good luck.

 That's a lotta luck.

Here's a video from a few year back.

Mandiles - Aprons - Tlacolula

I always get the ladies in the Etla market gifts for Three Kings Day.  They take such good care of me.  So I needed eight somethings and what better things to get than classic mandiles or aprons, useful and attractive, and so typically Oaxacan.  In the back of the Tlacolula market are maybe, ten stalls, each filled with beauties from which to choose.  It's the place to go for mandiles for sure.

Hmmm... somehow, I don't any of them read the blog or follow me on FB, so I think I'm safe and they'll be surprised once again.  They always seem shocked to get something in return for all they do for me.  Hey, I gave the trash guys gifts, too.

The best gorditas? - Tlacolula Market

Gorditas are different everywhere you go, but for me, the best are right at the top of the street ,just as one enters the extended Sunday market.  It is under an orange tarp which messes with the color of these photos, but the tacos and gorditas are sublime.  They know me there.  I remember a time when I went seven Sundays in a row just to get one and I live on the opposite side of the city.  What's an hour drive for one of these. 

First the masa is flattened by hand.  Today it was made from blue corn. 

 Then it is filled with chicken, pork or vegetables like potatoes,

Then a little cheese,

Then formed into a ball and flattened.

Into the oil.

Until they are done, golden and crispy.

Then filled with lettuce, onions, various salsas and sour cream..... just stop!  Soooo good.
It's a popular place.  The tacos are also really exceptional.

And the wait staff is especially charming.

Hungry yet?

Feria de Empanada - San Antonino Castillo Velasco

This video is from a couple of years ago. There's just too much to do and I can't do everything, but the empanadas remain the same.... the best!

It's all happening...

Saturday may have been Rabanos, but everywhere you turned there was something else happening.  The city is just overflowing with people and they are finding plenty to see and do.  There are lots of artesanos with stalls filled with amazing things for sale. 

There's a feria de Cafe. 

There's live music and plenty of calendas and of course, weddings and quinceaneras.  Look at these four young gentlemen.

They were the escorts for this young lady.

And weddings or bodas....

I saw at least three brides....

I was taught by a master wedding photographer, Sonya Melescu,  and the First Rule of wedding photography is the bride must always look good and she does.

The groom looks pretty good, too. Party on, Garth!