Getting around

These three modes of transportation were parked outside the market in Etla. In thinking about it, these are really the way people get around. Horses and burros are regular sights. Yes, people have cars, but the collectivos or cabs are the way lots of people get from place to places. Buses, too. And motos or motorcycles in various sizes are everywhere. I would love to get one, but I would kill or maim myself in no short order and I don't need that aggravation.And the police have a new way of getting around.
Put the two shots together and it makes quite a statement.
Lojack? No need. People have their own effective security devices.

"Killer Governor Falls"

Here is the story that should be told:
from John Ross at Counterpunch

As the preliminary election results began to flow this past July 4th, Ulises Ruiz Ortiz (URO), Oaxaca's outgoing governor whose police state tactics have been dissed on every strata of Mexican society from the nation's Supreme Court to the Zapotec market vendors in his state capital, was not a happy camper. Early returns overwhelmingly favored Gabino Cue, the candidate of a bizarre left-right alliance over URO's chosen successor Eviel Perez for governor of this impoverished southern state and Ulises began to drink heavily.

Soon, according to eye-witnesses as reported by Proceso magazine, Ruiz got on his cell phone to trash former aides, accusing them of betraying him and threatening great bodily harm. Indeed, his ex-Secretary of Government Jorge Franco took the threats to heart and reportedly fled Mexico.

Tres amigos

The family of our favorite local restaurant in Etla, Comedor Colon, recently had a wedding. One of the daughters, Lulu, met her husband to be, Victor Hugo at the restaurant. We gave them a killer boombox as a gift. And they presented us with party favors, gifts and a free meal. So here are the three amigos, Henry Wangeman of Amate Books, his son Zack (a recent graduate - felicidades!) and some guy. Do we look happy enough???? I wear my V y L hat all the time while driving and you have to admit, very cool bandannas.

Mezcal Festival - Feria de Mezcal

Right in the center of Llano Park, one can sample a wide variety of mezcal from Oaxaca and throughout Mexico at the annual Feria de Mezcal. Not being a big drinker and being alone, I did not go in. I heard from friends that the mezcal was not the best, but still quite tasty and potent. You can see from the price of entry it seems like a good deal. That just over a buck to get in and I have no idea what insem stands for. Anyone? Anyone?
I used to collect the posters for this event because they were always so beautifully done, real works of art. This year, not so much. I mean the guy looks like the Fonz.
Si toma, no maneje.
If you drink, don't drive.

Street Art cont....

Every day, something new. Seeing this one everywhere.On a doily? Ingenious.Remember this one from a couple weeks ago? Now with an addition.Bad day? Hare today, gone tomorrow.Oaxaca's most famous artist and patron, Francisco Toledo turns 70. Celebrations abound.

Style

It is all in the eyes of the beholder. This couple from Great Britain joined in with the thousands of tourists roaming the streets.

I am sure that this is how this caballero has dressed for years, a classic look, but what a look!
I wonder if I could pull it off... make it all the rage in NYC.

Guelaguetza -Oaxaca 2010

Oaxaca at its very best. The guelaguetza is one of major events of the year and this year is the bicentennial so the energy and emotion were overflowing, a joyous start to this two weeks celebration. Yes, it is a big tourist attraction and Oaxaca sure needs those tourist's pesos, but oaxaqueños are really doing it to share the dances and customs with each other, not really for the tourists. Oaxaca is a favorite destination for many Mexican tourists because of these traditions. And all is presented with such wonderful spirit and pride. It is a time when the various regions of the state come together to share traditions, most evident in dress and dance. Each group struts their stuff with accompanying band and marchers from the region. For more information and the whole history, click here. The desfile or calenda or parade on Saturday afternoon was simply spectacular as the groups walked a three kilometer route that ended up in front of Santo Domingo. Here are the dancers with marmotas, the large globes. Think about dancing and carrying that for almost two miles. Yes, they take turns and they wear a belt, like a flog pole holder. Aside from the beauty and the music, I was stuck by just how happy people were, both the participants and the huge crowds that lined the parade route. There are times in Oaxaca, when I feel so caught up in the sheer exuberance and joy of the moment, I forget everything else, swept away by the here and now. I think this is the way life is supposed to be. Oaxaqueños sure know how to do it.

The flor de piña dancers from San Juan Bautista Tuxtepec, always crowd favorites. Easy to see why. And that's the thing. Normally, oaxaqueños are not all that happy to be photographed and lots of times, they ask that you not do it. However, for the guelaguetza, it is, "Here I am. Shoot me already." And to be fair to the one blocked out in the shot. There is a reason why oaxaqueñas are renown for their beauty.
These outfits, all the rags, are so similar to ones I shot in the Caribbean. Same with these guys on stilts.One can get pretty tired dancing on stilts for a couple of hours.And it all happens again next Saturday. The whole two weeks are packed with events. Still time to come.

It is all about Bea(triz)

I am still working on photos and video from last week's wonderful fiesta in Teotitlan del Valle. Also, too, I have been without internet for a few days, but finally have gotten things back up with the help of folks from telcel.
One of the best things about shooting these fiestas a few times is that one learns how the events unfold or, in the case of la calenda, the path they walk throughout the village. Knowing this. I was able to shoot at one location and then run to the next and be waiting to shoot it all over again.There were perhaps two hundred young women and girls marching this year. It was spectacular.

One of the the best moments for me was seeing Beatriz, the daughter of Antonio and Claudia Ruiz, my zapotec friends, marching in her first calenda. I have watched her grow up and her smile lit up the world. It doesn't get any better than this. Her proud family. With Antonio a couple of years ago.

Teotitlan del Valle - Fiesta - Un sueño, a dream

What a week! Really a photographer's dream, but even without a camera it would have been a powerful experience. I am still working on photos and video and there is still one day to go. Mmmm, tomorrow is Emilia Ruiz's mole negro, which I maintain is the the best EVAH. Oh, there is more dancing and celebration, too.

The people of Teotitlan have been so friendly, this event so special, that once I get it together and find some time to write up the experience, I hope I can do them and it justice. But for now, some early shots of la calenda and la danza.Doña Marina and Malinche, two halves of the same coin.With MotezumaHigh flyin'

Guelaguetza Roof cont.....

Fugetaboutit, it ain't gonna happen. I have been posting about this for some weeks now and lo and behold, from La Imparcial:

Se pudo constatar ayer, luego de un recorrido por la zona, que toda la maquinaria con la cual se estaba trabajando, así como los soldadores, albañiles y ayudantes ya no se encuentran, desaparecieron como por arte de magia, dejando abandonada parte de la estructura metálica.

Roughly translated:

It was possible to state yesterday, after a drive by the workzone, that all the machinery with which they were working, as well as the welders, bricklayers and assistants are no longer there, they disappeared as if by art of magic, leaving only the parts for the metallic structure.

Yeah, right, "by the art of magic". I am sure it was coincidential that it happened immediately after the election. The whole project had curious or what might be called a smelly, history.

So they left huge piles of dirt blocking the entrance and the stage forcing the bicentennial celebration of the Guelaguetza to be moved to the Benito Juarez stadium.

In my opinion, and what do I know, this is just a blatant "f*ck you" to the city. This is the key cultural event of the summer and anyone who knows anything knows that Oaxaca needs some income comin' in, tourist dollars. This is such a deep, painful and spiteful thing to do, I could spit nails. Nuf said....

Teotitlan del Valle - Fiesta

I have been spending the week driving back and forth to the zapotec weaving village, Teotitlan del Valle, as they celebrate one of their annual fiestas. Each day has been dramatic in terms of weather with huge dark and ominous clouds building over the mountains. And yes, boy did it rain.

This year is extra special with a particularly large group of dancers for the Danza de las Plumas, the Dance of the Conquistadors. The extras this time are Cortez and his army. It is a photographer's dream. I don't know how many times I have shot it, but each time, it is better mainly because Teotitlan is one of the most magical and deep places I have been.
Here the schedule for the week. Click on it and you should be able to read it right down to the dancer's names.One of the best parts of the week is the special tamales served on Wednesday. I was once again blessed to eat Emilia Ruiz's incredible tamales amarillo. She made 300 of them and we put a good dent in them.Three more days to go, but I will post photos soon. I hope to have Emilia's mole negro on Sunday. Simply the best.

Election - Oaxaca

I was here for the last election, staying in the city, and last Sunday's winner, Gabino Cué, was on the ballot. He was ahead when I went to bed and I went to bed because the power went out. When we awoke his opponent, Ulises Ruiz, had won. The years that followed were some of the most trying and horrible years any city or state could endure. There was corruption, oppression, violence, wasteful spending, social problems galore, all of which culminated in the many months of anarchy in 2006. Years later, Oaxaca has still not come close to recovering economically or in its standing as a world cultural destination.

I am a humble guest here, so I will leave it at that.

However, this recent election is such a breath of fresh air, a sign of hope. People got organized and overcame what appeared to be an firmly entrenched establishment. The people's message is loud and powerful and one that resonates, or should resonate, in many places. Oaxaca is known for its culture and for the strength and pride of its indigenous peoples. It is inspirational to see how to make it through tough times and to keep pushing for moral and social justice. It is a key moment. Now let's see what follows.

Can it be done?

How's the roof on the stadium where the guelaguetza will be held in a couple of weeks comin' along? Oaxaqueños are capable of many amazing things, but I am not too sure about this one.

It's official - Election results

Full story and photo from El Imparcial.

With 56 percent voter participation, the results are official. Gambino Cué is the new governor. He won by almost ten points. He inherits a mess of problems, but people are hopeful. And many of them are surprised that this day even came to Oaxaca. It has been a long time comin'.