Guelaguetza in Etla

The guelaguetza dance fiesta is officially over, but it is important to remember the concept behind it all, one of sharing and offering.  Instead of attending the large celebration in the city, fellow blogger, spixl and I opted to go to one of the local events, the one in nearby Etla.
 
Be sure to check out her fantastic post about the event.

Etla is my everyday market and the home of my favorite restaurant.  I feel at home there.  So it was no surprise to witness all the joy and pride that oaxaqueños feel about the indigenous regions of the state. 

There are seven or eight distinct regions, depending how you count them, and each has their own look and style of dance.

In every guelaguetza celebration, these groups are represented by a delegation of dancers and are easily recognized by their outfits and their dances.  Each has its own personality as well.  Some are somber and reserved

while others are exuberant and flashy. 


Check this handy guide to identify each.

The crowd in Etla had been treated to free tamales and atole before the dancing began.  There was also plenty of mezcal, pulche and more.  This is the essence of the guelaguetza, sharing.

After each performance, the dancers distributed, really threw, items representative of their regions.
 
The audience was showered with little gifts, hats, fans, fruit... yes, even the pineapples were heaved into outstretched arms.

One of the most striking aspects, one that always makes me catch my breath, almost shed a tear, is the sense of pride oaxaqueños feel for each other. 

When each group walks out, the is a palpable rush of emotion, a pride, that I have not seen many other places.
 
The dancers were young, but every bit as accomplished as the ones in the city. 

In fact, they were energized by the intimacy of the crowd and really performed wonderfully.

The whole affair lasted about three hours, from ten in the morning until two in the afternoon, but it could have been longer because the whole event was so joyous and magical, there was no sense of time.
 
After a delicious meal we drove back into the city and passed the line waiting to get into the late afternoon performance at the auditorium.  The line was probably a mile long, people patiently waiting to see the show.  What a different experience we had. 

As I checked the papers the next day, other guelagueztas were featured, but not the one in Etla.  Some had thousands of spectators, but I think we were blessed to attend what appeared to be one of the most intimate.

Gracias Etla y ¡Viva Oaxaca!